questions from a newbie… the transitioner edition

29 July 2009 ~ 39 Comments

questions from a newbie… the transitioner edition

Shari is up in the lab designing a new webpage for BGLH. But she’s also trying to figure out a new regimen for her transition from relaxed to natural. Peep her questions and help if you can…(continued from Sunday)

There are a few challenges I run into on a weekly basis. Maybe all of you BGLH readers can lend some insight:

1. My switch to new products is causing acne
For the first time in my life, I am getting acne on my back!!!! NOOO!!! I’m wondering if this is being caused my runoff from my products in the shower, or maybe from my twistouts rubbing against my shoulders and back. I’m also getting pimples along my cheeks and hairline. I think my beloved Oyin Whipped Pudding may be the culprit, but I’m not sure. I think it has a lot of shea butter in it. Have any of you had experiences with shea causing breakouts?

2. I think I’ve been doing my twists and bantu knots too tight
My twists and knots end up coming out really tight…and I’m afraid I may be losing unnecessary hair in the long run because of this. Plus, the tension headaches aren’t fun either.

This is my twists & bantu knot regimen;

· Let hair air dry until damp
· Use Oyin Whipped Pudding for hold
· Cover w/ silk scarf while sleeping
· Let down in the morning

Because of my relaxed ends, when I try to make them looser…my hair unravels during the night. I also tried using little elastics to hold them, but I end up with undesirable crimp marks.

3. I’m starting to think too many wash and goes are doing horrible things to my hair
My hair seems to be getting drier and more frizzy the more I wet it and co-wash.

Shari’s wash and go
My wash & go regimen is;

· Co-wash with Trader Joe’s Nourish Spa shampoo in shower under chlorine & hard water reducing shower filter
· Detangle with lots of conditioner
· Wash out
· Oyin honey-hemp conditioner as a leave in
· Oyin shine and define for hold & definition

I usually do a wash and go 2x a week. I try to only use shampoo or a no-poo bar 1-3 times a month. You think that may be too much?

4. My scalp itches ALL the time!
I have tried baking soda, ACV rinses, shampooing more regularly…but my scalp just always feels gross! Have any of you encountered conditioners and styling products being too heavy and suffocating to your scalp? Could I be using too much product?

5. Is there a right way to do a co-wash & ACV rinse?
This may be one of the reasons I’m still having my itchy scalp issue, but I’m not sure. How long should you massage your scalp when co-washing? Is using full strength ACV bad? How long should you leave an ACV rinse on for? Should you do it before or after conditioning?

39 Responses to “questions from a newbie… the transitioner edition”

LovintheBlessin 29 July 2009 at 4:30 am Permalink

Well, because of all the problems you're having, I would suggest considering kinky twists or any other extension style. Your hair (and maybe you) needs a rest. as far as products breaking you out, do your hair first and wash second so that you're removing all product residue.

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South Loop Social Light 29 July 2009 at 4:46 am Permalink

I rarely do any wash and go's any more. I find that a twist out with give me similar results but moisturized. I've been using Suave Coconut conditioner for my co-wash and Aussie Moist for my leave in. I add some Pantene Pro-V smooth hair serum on wet hair and add a little Motions moisturizing treatment and John Frieda Freeze Ease alcohol free mousse.( It sounds like a lot but it seriously takes 2 minutes to put this on) I twist my hair at night and let it air dry as much as I can before I go to sleep. I try throwing on a scarf and sleeping fairly pretty but that doesn't always work out so much. lol…

Issues? Well, my right cheek has been breaking out and I don't know whether that's because of the twist outs or just life. lol…

I haven't experienced the other issues – - no headaches, no itchy scalp, and my hair actually seems to be doing BETTER with the transition than when I was using texturizers. Breaking up with my flat iron has been the best thing ever! I hardly ever straighten any more.

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Alice 29 July 2009 at 4:57 am Permalink

1) Yes, heavy products with lots of oils made me break out near my hairline. I started wrapping a cotton scarf around my hairline to prevent product-y water from dripping all over my face.

3 & 5)Shampoo=/=co-washing, that's probably your problem. Co-washing means washing and detangling with conditioner ONLY. The shampoo is probably drying your scalp out making it itch.

Hope this helps! Happy transitioning!

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Ada 29 July 2009 at 6:26 am Permalink

so I am a fellow transitioner and we share similar issues. I have been transitioning for about 4months now. Frankly the twist out and bantu knots dont work for me because it doesnt last long and I have to keep manipulating my hair . I also use the oyin whipped pudding(great for moisturizing). I have always had break outs so I cant really say if there is a significant increase in my breakout since oyin

Have you tried doing straw sets? ever since I started doing those, my transition life has been easier, plus your hair ends up looking natural( fake it till you make it aye?lol). twist out and the rest are just yuck to me really.
The straw set last me two weeks, I can leave it longer but I opt to wash it out to get a deep condition to keep my hair healthy and the older the straw sets become the better it looks, cos it give you this afro curly look, I love it. with the straw sets, you have less manipulation with your hair hence less breakage. you wake up in the mornin, shake you hair , pick some curls out and your good to go. plus you can style it however you want, pin it up, or do a fro hawk. It makes me feel like I am natural already.lol ok I am gushing too much.
It takes me about two to -three hours to put the straws(yes straws, what did you think? lol) in. I also use bobby pins to hold the straw in place and the endwraps to protect the ends as well as prevent the hair from slipping at the end. you can use ant curl mouse for definition

I'll also recommend the garnier fructus sleek and shine serum. that does wonders to my hair for detangling(boy does my hair get tangled.sigh). I usually apply it after I wash my hair, it has a thin oily consistency so I find it best to be used when hair is damp. and you feel the difference as you massage it into your hair. a little goes a long way. I also use the garnier fructus sleek and shine deep conditioner as well, it helps a whole lot to control frizz and keep my straw set looking good.
I hope this helps
if you have any questions about doing the straw set or wanna see pics of my straw set, email me at vainmelodies@gmail.com.

ouch my post is long, I had to pour it out to help a fellow transitioner. I feel your pain sister

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Ada 29 July 2009 at 6:33 am Permalink

also I tried using baking soda to wash my hair this week. and it irritated my scalp. Its not for me, I'll stick to my hello hydration shamppo( I seem to be a walking advert for garnier fructus.lol)
from my little search, it seems baking soda can strip your hair of moisture. I think it should be done only when necessary like if you have wicked crazy build up in your hair.
you should probably limit your shampooing to every two weeks or something.

when and if you use baking soda, follow up with deep conditioning

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? ? [m a r i . b e e]. ? 29 July 2009 at 7:25 am Permalink

use a hair pin for the end of the twist when you do your bantu knot twist out things to hold them in place thats what i do! but leave enough of the ends present so

1. you know where the end is
and
2. so the hair won't slip out

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? ? [m a r i . b e e]. ? 29 July 2009 at 7:25 am Permalink

use a hair pin for the end of the twist when you do your bantu knot twist out things to hold them in place thats what i do! but leave enough of the ends present so

1. you know where the end is
and
2. so the hair won't slip out

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? ? [m a r i . b e e]. ? 29 July 2009 at 7:25 am Permalink

use a hair pin for the end of the twist when you do your bantu knot twist out things to hold them in place thats what i do! but leave enough of the ends present so

1. you know where the end is
and
2. so the hair won't slip out

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? ? [m a r i . b e e]. ? 29 July 2009 at 7:25 am Permalink

use a hair pin for the end of the twist when you do your bantu knot twist out things to hold them in place thats what i do! but leave enough of the ends present so

1. you know where the end is
and
2. so the hair won't slip out

Reply
? ? [m a r i . b e e]. ? 29 July 2009 at 7:25 am Permalink

use a hair pin for the end of the twist when you do your bantu knot twist out things to hold them in place thats what i do! but leave enough of the ends present so

1. you know where the end is
and
2. so the hair won't slip out

Reply
? ? [m a r i . b e e]. ? 29 July 2009 at 7:25 am Permalink

use a hair pin for the end of the twist when you do your bantu knot twist out things to hold them in place thats what i do! but leave enough of the ends present so

1. you know where the end is
and
2. so the hair won't slip out

Reply
? ? [m a r i . b e e]. ? 29 July 2009 at 7:25 am Permalink

use a hair pin for the end of the twist when you do your bantu knot twist out things to hold them in place thats what i do! but leave enough of the ends present so

1. you know where the end is
and
2. so the hair won't slip out

Reply
Jc 29 July 2009 at 7:57 am Permalink

You really have answered most of your questions yourself!

1. Shea butter is generally not considered comedogenic (meaning doesn't cause spots). However many people have complained about it to me and therefore I do think some skin is just sensitive. Keep the product in your hair not on your skin.

2. Tight anything is terrible. Traction alopecia is a risk, just do them loose.

3 and 4. Just stop doing the co-wash. Change to shampoo and conditioning on every wash. I will say that co-washing is not for everyone because the surfactants in conditioner may not be sufficient to cleanse the scalp for some of us. I think that many people are also tempted to leave a little bit of conditioner in the hair and not rinse it out fully leading to product build up and itching.

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Faren 29 July 2009 at 10:56 am Permalink

Are you sprtizing your hair? Any misting or sripping of creams or oil will definitely leave traces and cause acne. You just have to be cognizant. I wash my face after applying products to my hair. When co-washing in the shower. I always wash my back and neck after I rinse out all of the conditioner. I think if you make these small adjustments clear skin will be back sooner than you know it :)

f…

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Anonymous 29 July 2009 at 12:38 pm Permalink

I know you asked for advice on how to transistion, but I wish you'd go ahead and cut off the perm. I GUARANTEE you that you will not regret it. It's had to let go of the hair, but once you do it, you'll kick yourself for waiting so long. You will look fabulous with short hair. Just do it. Just do it. Just do it.

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Chi 29 July 2009 at 1:06 pm Permalink

You've already received some pretty good advice but I just wanted to drop a word on the Trader Joe's conditioner you are using. Right after I cut my hair that was my faithful wash and go conditioner until I noticed my hair would never remain moist and some parts were turning straight! After consulting some hair boards and actually looking at what's in the product, I saw it has quite a bit of protein in it so maybe your hair can't take lots of protein? If so, I would suggest trying a different conditioner and see if that brings down the frizzes and dryness you are experiencing.

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sewdope 29 July 2009 at 1:07 pm Permalink

i agree with someone else's comment. lol i always wash my face after applying hair products. i also wash my face neck and back after i wash and condition my hair in the shower. i try to avoid washing my hair in the shower and instead wash it in the kitchen sink.

also, when you're doing your twists make sure your hair is wet at the root. that's helped me stop a lot of breakage. also, make sure your bantu knots aren't too tight. you will still have a nice wavy pattern if you do them loose.

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Eva 29 July 2009 at 1:10 pm Permalink

Hi congrats on transitioning, natural hair is healthy and beautiful.

I'm a big fan of using ACV rinses every month and they seemed to have helped my scalp so much

My scalp used to be itchy and flaky and now it's so healthy I don't even have to oil it!

ACV rinses CANNOT be full strength though, that is probably what is irritating your scalp. You have to dilute the ACV with water. I use a ratio of 1 part ACV to 3 parts water, but experiment and see what works for you. Try adding some scalp friendly essential oils as well, lavender, rosemary (i think), tea tree.

I hope that this helps

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Coffey0072 29 July 2009 at 1:26 pm Permalink

I've been natural for about 10-11 years and haven't experienced any breakouts. I rarely ever wash or co-wash my hair in the shower. I ALWAYS do it in the kitchen sink using a hose you can get relatively cheap at any beauty supply store. And I leave my hair (with conditioner) wrapped in a towel until I'm ready to wash it out… and I leave my hair wrapped after the wash out, until I'm ready to style it… that way there's no drippage and the towel has sopped up most of the water.

Also, conditioners are heavy and leave residue around the hairline and on the forehead. I read a skincare article once, and it stated that it's important to do your skincare routine AFTER you've conditioned your hair, so you can get rid of any residue. Letting hair with product drip down your face is probably another primary factor.

I would also try to not manipulate the hair as much as possible while you're transitioning. Perhaps a protective style would help.

Transitioning to natural hair is trial and error. Either way, good luck! You're almost there. ;-)

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Anonymous 29 July 2009 at 1:42 pm Permalink

Fellow transitioner here. :-)

1) Your Acne Issue: I agree with the commentors that said to wash your face/body AFTER you do your hair. Also, I do have acne, and on very rare occassions eczema. During my transition I've noticed that coconut oil was causing eczema breakouts, and when I stopped using it, the eczema stopped. So I naturally wondered if coconut oil was causing acne. I tried Chagrin Valley Soaps Grapeseed Shea bar (absent of coconut oil) and it's done wonders for keeping my acne at bay. Give it a try. Also, I checked Oyin's website and the Whipped Pudding does contain cocoa butter (and maybe coconut oil, not sure), which is highly pore-clogging for some acne-prone people.

2) Too Tight Bantu/Twist Outs:
The size of the twist is important; it will determine if the twist will stay without pinning. It's hard to write proper directions for a good twist-out/bantu knot, but you should twist and spin your ends until they come to a smooth point, no blunt ends, and no forced point. Your hair will tell you when it's done being twisted. SEAL YOUR ENDS!!!!! I recommend castor oil. If you learn to do this, your tension headaches may cease.

3) Wash & Go's: As for these causing dry hair, I first want to ask why shampoo 2x weekly when completing a wash & go? Don't you always shampoo/cleanse your scalp on bantu/twist-out day? Why not just CO-wash & go, and completely skip the shampoo??? Also, if your hair is dry, I highly recommend you deep condition with some type of oil(s) once weekly PRIOR to shampoo/no-poo/scalp cleansing. It does wonders to prevent dry hair and promote growth.

Good luck on your transition.

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Indigenous Productions 29 July 2009 at 2:13 pm Permalink

yeah, my hair itches like crazy nowadays and I don't know why.
I think I will just change my shampoo and conditioner and see how that works.

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Shari 29 July 2009 at 2:22 pm Permalink

Thanks for all the advice everyone!

@ South Loop – Giiirl, when we were roomies, I swear both of us had a flat iron addiction. I'm glad we have since given it up.

@Clarahallow – I have been looking into a pomade for my twists. Do you know of any good ones?

@Ada – I haven't tried straw sets…but I want to. I will def email you for pics. Do you so your straws at home or a shop?

@Jc – I have been leaving a lot of conditioner in my hair because U thought it was a good thing. But I guess I have been having a lot of protein/product buildup.

@Faren – Nah, I don't use any spritzes…they don't seem to do much for my hair.

@Anonymous – I think I may go that route very soon :)

@Chi – Thanks for the info on the Trader Joe's condish. I use way too much of that suff anyway. Do you know of any good conditioners that arent heavy on the protein?

@Eva – I used ACV full strength a few times. Big mistake!!! I didn't know any better.

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Shari 29 July 2009 at 2:30 pm Permalink

@Coffey – Trial and error is an understatement :) What protective styles do you recommend?

@Anonymous – I had not been sealing my ends…I'm going to start doing that. As for the shampooing, my scalp itching has been so severe, the co-washing was only making it worse because I guess I still had scalp residue. And no, I don't always wash/cleanse on the twist/knot days. Once or twice I would do a wash n' go, then do the twists/knots the next day.

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Coily Crowns 29 July 2009 at 2:50 pm Permalink

I had a serious itchy and irritated scalp issue. What helped was mixing a tablespoon of ACV in some conditioner and applying it to my scalp before washing and conditioning. I let it sit with a plastic cap for about 15-20 min. Then I wash etc….

You use a few Oyin Products, so I would suggest the Oyin Honeywash instead of co-washing most of the time.

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South Loop Social Light 29 July 2009 at 3:22 pm Permalink

@ Shari – Hilarious!! You're right though. My flat iron was my best friend. I actually LOVE the flat iron that I have now and had convinced myself that I didn't mind breaking my hair off and needing insane trims every time I got a touch up because my flat iron made me so happy. lol… My friends agreed that I needed a flat iron intervention. lol…

Something I forgot to mention before is that after I twist my hair I always take a cotton ball and put some toner/astringent on it and go over my face, neck and back to try and get off any of the conditioner/oil that could have dripped down. This usually does the trick.

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Nicole 29 July 2009 at 3:22 pm Permalink

1) Shea butter is great for my hair, but it breaks me out as well, which is unfortunate. I use Oyin Frank Juice on dry hair and it doesn't break me out and leave my hair really soft. Try using less shea butter or mixing it with another moisturizer. Residue from your shampoo/conditioner might be causing the acne on your back. Make sure that when you rinse your hair, rinse your skin well too.

2 & 4) You scalp may itch because your twists/bantu knots are too tight, which can cause stress on your scalp and cause it to itch. I notice that when I braid or twist my hair too tight, my scalp gets irritated and itches like crazy.

3) Keep in mind hair frizzes when it tries to soak up moisture from the air. Try sealing in moisture with an oil for your wash n gos. Possibly castor oil?

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Ada 29 July 2009 at 3:35 pm Permalink

i do them at home

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Anonymous 29 July 2009 at 3:47 pm Permalink

Like others have said I doubt it is the shea butter causing the breakout since it is non-comedogenic.
I myself absolutely LOVE pure unrefined shea butter!! I started using it all over my body and now my face and have been break-out free for a very long time – its also uber moisturising!!
I also experienced a tight, painful itchy scalp after I stopped relaxing. However the itching was more intense for a short period after I did the BC and from my research I think it might be linked to a condition called "scab hair" which you may want to research online.
This itchy painful feeling stopped some time after my bc and may be due to the fact I started to only use natural products to care for my hair.
Good luck with your transition btw!

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Ivy 29 July 2009 at 4:15 pm Permalink

tea tree oil has worked wonders for my scalp. no itch and no dandruff. i'd recommend that for your scalp itching. good luck!

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Anonymous 29 July 2009 at 6:07 pm Permalink

Fellow Transitioner Here (Again!)

The itchey scalp could be an indication that you're allergic to something within the products you are using. It's going to be hard to determine which if this is the case, but pay attention. The culprit will reveal itself.

I myself have to cleanse my scalp once per week. I use a shampoo bar from Chagrin Valley. When I ONLY co-washed it left flakes.

Try simplifying your routine/products. I deep condition weekly (with whatever I've got 'cept coconut), prior to washing, then wash with bar, then apply a leave-in (KBB hair milk) OR sometimes a homemade moisturizer, usually involving shea butter. Knot it up and let it dry. Then once/twice during the week I may co-wash (or not) and re-knot.

I know that's a lot, and I am all over the board, but again I believe simplicity is always the key – products and routine. And seal those ends because that straight hair is going to be DYING with that new growth popping up. And deep condish weekly!

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Newly Nappy 29 July 2009 at 8:26 pm Permalink

Hi Shari! Ok, since we all know each head is different I wont mention much about specific products to try. I can try to offer some advice about techniques and such to help ur situation.

I personally have always had horrendous cornflake sized itchy dandruff. Perms damaged my scalp quite severely. This helped me. Learn about product ingredients, like I seriously cannot stress this enough. Sulfates are bad for me. So I use a sulfate free shampoo. Can I say major major MAJOR improvement! You will be shocked how strongly the ingredients in ur products can affect ur situation. Since I don't use sulfates I am very cautious about using silicones, most of them require a sulfate based cleanser to remove them and prevent the buildup. I limit myself to only one silicone product in my arsenal and then I use it sparingly. I use my sulfate free shampoo every other week, co-washing in between, and do an acv rinse once a month. NEVER use acv full strength. I alwys do a deep treatment afterwrds.

To help get your scalp under control u can try co-washing myb every 2 to 3 days as you need it. Sometimes I have flairups where my scalp is just itchy (it hardly ever happens anymore since I've learned more about what my hair/scalp can and cant handle) when that I happens i just go and co wash it. Use the same scrubbing efforts u wud if u were doing a shampoo and THOROUGHLY rinse out the conditioner. This removes all the dirt irritants and (if u have them) flakes. This co-wash is focused on cleansing the scalp. U can even do it more than once, like if u were shampooing ur hair u mite do that first shampoo and then repeat the co-wash is the same. Just remember to focus on scrubbing/cleansing ur scalp, u can do ur detangling and conditioning of the hair after that. I still would suggest rinsing ALL of the conditioner out and use fresh conditioner for your leave-in. This will also help u to be sure the right amount is in the hair.

As for the dry hair, I've found that if a conditioner has too much alcohol in it there can be a drying effect. Too much protein also gives me problems. I only use a protein conditioner once a month or so. Regular deep treatments have also really helped my hair with this problem, I usually do them 2x a week now and I can tell the difference. Also, adding oils to my conditioners (especially when doing deep treatments) have proven essential to me. Rite now my oil blend of choice is castor, olive, vitamin e, shea butter (the oil), and grapesesd. I use more of the castor oil than the others. It has been wonderful!! You may have to test out and find what's good for you but the oils do make the difference in my conditioners. I layer prods when i wash n go. My leave in of choice first then I have a styling prod i like in the middle and my oil blend to finish.

Also, why are u styling the hair once its dried? U said u let it dry til its jus kinna damp. I don't know how ur hair reacts but i find I do much better if all styling/manipulating is done on WET hair. My twists bantu knots flat twists everything is done wet. The only things I do on dry hair are my pin-ups. I get better volume that way. I don't kno if u have a particular reason for doing things dry but i lose less hair and just get better results on wet hair.

Yes this is a long daggone comment! Lol, but my hair and my scalp are in the best shape they've ever been inso i just wanted to share. Do research on ingredients and start paying attention to ur product lists. Start experimenting and see what truly works for u. This will really make a big difference. Hope u find ur routine!

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xxlolax9 30 July 2009 at 2:17 am Permalink

hello, i think the best thing for hair during the transitioning period is to reduce amount of manipulation. you can consider getting braids or twist or flexi strand(check youtube).. so your hair can rest and grow.

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Must Love Movies 30 July 2009 at 2:28 am Permalink

sometimes get jealous when i look at people's hair. i would my hair to be longer and to look like that after taking my twists out. it is what it is. i have never found a bush look that i really like. i think i will dread again or get extensions until it grows out some more. but i do love pretending i'm in the 70's with my fro plucked out

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Milan 30 July 2009 at 1:46 pm Permalink

ACV needs to diluted with water and a lot of it. So please don't use it straight on your hair. I mix 1 part ACV to 4-5 parts water.

Most co-wash by simply using it as if it were shampoo. So you just massage it in like you would shampoo and rinse. That's it. If you feel frequent co-washes r drying ur hair out, then I would reduce the frequency. There's no right or wrong amount of times to co-wash. Do what works best for you.

The itching of your scalp could be build up or you could be allergic to an ingredient/s in one of your hair care products.

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Shari 30 July 2009 at 1:55 pm Permalink

I swear I am going to print out all of these comments and tape them to my bathroom mirror. I know a lot of going natural is trial & error, but I was doing a lot of silly sh*t. i.e. full strength ACV & tight bantu knots.

Thanks again everybody!!!

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Patricia Grannum 30 July 2009 at 2:35 pm Permalink

your hair looks great. As for your questions:

The shampoo could be what's drying your scalp.

ACV really helps with itchy scalp but it probably shouldn't be full strength. It's super acidic

http://womanofcolour.blogspot.com.

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Chi 30 July 2009 at 3:55 pm Permalink

@Shari- here are some conditioners that are protein light and can be easy on your wallet:
V05 Champagne Kisses
V05 Honeydew Smoothie
V05 Passionfruit Smoothie
V05 Blackberry Sage Tea
Aussie Real Volume Conditioner
White Rain Extra Body Conditioner
White Rain Lavender Vanilla Conditioner
White Rain Energizing Citrus Conditioner
Suave Tropical Coconut Conditioner
Suave Aloe Vera & Water Lily Conditioner
Suave Juicy Green Apple Conditioner
Suave Naturals Lavender Conditioner
Suave Naturals Strawberry Conditioner
Suave Naturals Ocean Breeze Conditioner

@ Social- ITA. Usually do the same thing as you with taking some toner and wiping my temples and hairline (even behind the ear) to get up extra oil or whatever that may have traveled there when styling.

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Erica 7 August 2009 at 3:48 pm Permalink

First of all, I LOVE the wavy style you accomplished after the twist-n-knots! I will be trying that TODAY. I have no advice whatsoever as I am still permed considering transitioning into natural. But I will be following your blog and see what happens with you before i make the full transition! Good Luck!!

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mag duru 19 August 2009 at 1:44 pm Permalink

v pretty hair n woman!

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