By Jc of The Natural Haven
Click here for part 1 of this series.
Avril asks: ‘What do protein treatments really do for your hair, in particular eggs? What is it in ApHogee 2 step protein treatment that makes the hair so hard, and how do we benefit from it?’
Kelly asks: ‘I thought natural hair was undamaged, do we really need to use protein conditioners?’
Jan asks: ‘Can I add amino acids to my hair conditioner to make a protein conditioner?’
Let me start by describing proteins. Proteins are made up from single units known as amino acids (see the diagram below). These amino acids (approximately 20 different types) are arranged joined together through peptide bonds. For simplicity I have drawn just 4. The order and number of amino acids that make up a protein is determined genetically (DNA is wonderful!!). Each protein is made up several hundred to a few thousand amino acids. Again for simplicity I have drawn just a few amino acids.
This is because to be useful, the protein has to adsorb (yep with a D) to hair. Adsorb means the protein sticks to and forms temporary bonds with the hair. Very large protein simply can’t form these bonds reliably. Amino acids on the other hand tend to be very soluble in water so you can expect that you will remove majority of whatever you put on once you rinse your hair. With damaged hair, very small hydrolysed protein (known as peptide fragments) can also be absorbed - yes this can penetrate through to the cortex and be deposited in the hair shaft (Journal of Cosmetic Science, pg69-87, 1993).
Size Matters
Just before moving on, let me just say that even hydrolysed protein has an ideal size for use:
For collagen hydrosylates for example, this is a molecular weight of 2000 (Book reference – Conditioning agents for hair and skin By Randy Schueller, Perry Romanowski).
For wheat hydrosylates this is around 5000-10000 ( Book reference -Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care By Errol Desmond Goddard, James V. Gruber).
The problem is that I have not seen a single protein conditioner actually state the molecular weight. The protein part of eggs (egg white/egg albumin) has a molecular weight of approximately 33000- 40000 (The Journal of Biological Chemistry, pg 189-193, 1939). I can’t find a reference for hydrolysed egg albumin size but I would strongly suspect that this molecular weight is too large to be beneficial.
Next Page
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Thanks for part 1 &2! =)
What are other options for a protein treatment other than ApHogee?
I’m doing research on this myself, and both Curl Junky’s “Repair Me” and Nexxus “Emergencee” have been recommended to me. After doing a little research, I’m going to try the Nexxus and see how it works.
Komaza I believe has a product too
So, could you do this as a “pre-poo” conditioner, with a conditioning cap under a dryer for best effects?
No! Protein treatments aren’t conditioners in the sense that they aren’t oily softeners and you shouldn’t cover the hair with anything during the protein treatment. The protein structure dries in a hard cover over the hair.
I just used egg, mayo, and olive oil and honey. Sometimes I add other oils like coconut, jojoba, and any other oils I have. I do this every other week and my hair loves it. I have noticed a lot less shedding and frizz. My mother used to put this in my hair when I was little and it helped my hair to grow nice and healthy.
how much of each do you use? and do u use it as a prepoo or just a deep conditioning?
but from what i was reading here, the parts of an egg may be too large to penetrate and bond with the hair, right?
Thanks for the citations as well as graphics to go with your explanation. I’ve picked up a lot of this knowledge poring over different articles over the years, but it’s always nice to see it all in one place w/ scientific backup!
Re: Aphogee treatments, i have been using them for years and swear by them. when i had a perm it would make an instant difference in reducing breakage (i used a LOT of heat on my hair then). having been natural almost 8 years (mainly so i can highlight/color my hair), i’ve found the treatments particularly useful 2 weeks following a color service or after 8 weeks or more of protective styling like braids w/ extensions. it has helped restore some curl (not all, but some) after straightening newly salon-colored and/or highlighted hair left me w/ straight ends. i’d rather have some curl than have to chop at random!
so from a styling junkie’s perspective, i’d recommend incorporating the Aphogee treatment (only recommended every 6-8 weeks and not w/in 2 weeks of color or relaxer) if you’re looking for a simple at-home maintenance option.
hope this feedback helps!
Thanks for the compliments on the citations and graphics :)
Also, I think the following link is very helpful, offered by a fellow commenter: http://radiant-brown-beauty.com/shocking-truth-about-protein-and-hair/
She debunks the myth of “protein sensitivity”, describes why hair becomes hard, and gives tips about how to do a proper job of a protein treatment so that your hair is moisturized and doesn’t become brittle.
great link!
I love this link thanks alot
one last thing to note (and then i’m logging off- i swear!:) is that for some there can be such a thing as too much deep conditioning which also produces brittle hair. i learned this from a hairdresser when after weeks of sitting under the dryer faithfully with my conditioner, i had a mix of very dry ends in my crown. before talking to her, i thought that more time under the dryer with my concoctions of conditioner and essential oils would save the day, but no such luck. after learning that i’d been possibly spending too much time under the dryer (2-3 times monthly for at least 35 mins just during the conditioning phase) i reduced my deep conditions to once a month and felt the difference within 2 weeks. that was 3 years ago and it still works as a routine for me.
cheers to everyone finding what works!
A gib thank you for both part 1-2.and all the diagrams,clear illustrations.
thanks for breaking it down, i’ve noticed some damage to my hair after i colored it & when twisting it. i’m going to try a protein treatment asap and see if it helps. (i also trim my end regularly, but i think i need them professionally done)
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Great information so Here is what I learned and hopefully this is accurate LOL
- Eggs sitting on my head are pretty much pointless (I’d do better eating them)
- I should continue using my Aphogee 2 Step Protein periodically
- Rinse Off conditioners do just that RINSE OFF, and down my drain
- When I do decide to Color my hair I need to keep up with my Protein treatments to keep it healthy
Thanks again.
The model on this page is so pretty.
I just realized that many of you said thank you for the diagrams. Please excuse my laziness for today and I will just say a huge your welcome and thank you for the compliments :)
Aphogee works wonders!!!
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This was great! I learned a lot ! Thank you!
DO, NOT, BELIEVE, THE HYPE! THIS IS ALL MARKETING BS AND HAIR, AND PROTEINS ETC DO NOT IN ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM WORK THIS WAY (SORRY FOR THE ALL CAPS)
I did not know much about protein treatment….thx for the info. What other products can I use besides aphogee coz I do not know where to get it? Secondly what would be the order of events during the treatment?
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