3 Ways To Decrease Shrinkage in Natural Hair

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By Jc of The Natural Haven

Shrinkage is an important issue in caring for natural hair. I am all for embracing shrinkage but this does not mean that I will allow my hair to fully demonstrate just how good it is at doing  this.  Controlling shrinkage does not mean hair has to be stretched out to full length all the time. It actually means learning when hair will shrink, how much it will shrink and how you can reduce this to a manageable level.  Controlling shrinkage has three main benefits:

1. Easier time detangling

2. Easier styling by being able to control the amount of stretch.

3. Breakage reduction i.e learning when your hair will stretch without breaking and when it won’t

Here is how to minimise shrinkage during each of the three basic steps of a simple hair routine:

1. Cleansing

The starting point of most hair routines involves dissolving oil on the hair so that it can be washed off with water. In order to do this, you require a shampoo, shampoo bar or soap of your choice.

 Controlling Shrinkage:  Shrinking during this step is generally expected but can be controlled by loosely braiding or twisting hair in large sections (between 8 and 15). This will generally prevent hair from fully coiling and tangling once it is in contact with water. It is best not to fight shrinkage beyond what braiding or twisting can do at this stage as although hair tends to feel more elastic when wet, it is actually weaker.

Optional Add-ons: Prior to washing, using a penetrating oil such as coconut oil can help control the amount of water that gets into hair. However, remember that it may not be easy to see a visible impact as when hair is soaked in water, there is no oil that can fully prevent its entry into hair.

2. Conditioning

This is the backbone of most natural hair routines. After cleansing, a rinse out hair conditioner (this includes deep conditioning) is used to repair, soften and moisturise hair. Post wash,  a leave in conditioner can be used to give added softness and control moisture loss.

 Controlling Shrinkage : In this step, the hair conditioner selection does matter. The reason many people with natural hair like thicker conditioners is in part because of the weight of the conditioner. The extra weight allows hair to ‘hang’ a little more than it would if the conditioner was lightweight. Additionally, if you choose to detangle hair while it has conditioner on, select one with good slip to allow you to reduce the time spent detangling and handling wet hair (slip means hair can easily slide through the tool of your choice – fingers, combs or brush).  Twisted or braided sections as described in the cleansing section can also help.

Optional Add-ons:  Some ingredients in hair conditioner can help in an indirect way to controlling shrinkage. Surfactants such as behentrimonium chloride make the hair softer and therefore curls and coils can be gently stretched out with minimal force. Proteins  repair defects in hair and therefore  help the hair control  how much water can exit from the shaft.  Trying out and finding an optimal hair conditioner is definitely worth the effort.

3. Styling

This is the step where you can apply ultimate shrinkage control as hair is moving from a wet state to a dry state.  Do you know why your hair takes on the shape of rollers during a roller set or twists during a twist out but once you spray water on it, it goes back to its original shape? The answer is shape memory.  Hair can be stretched out and take on the shape of whatever is causing the stretch as it dries. This shape change is temporary and the hair will return to its normal conformation provided it has not been damaged (i.e not too much force used to stretch or high/prolonged heat).  Therefore the stage where you are drying is the point at which you can impact shrinkage the most.

Controlling shrinkage: This section focuses on heat-free methods (i.e excluding blow drying and flat ironing).  If you want  to showcase your length, you can braid or twist your hair to stretch it while it is about 70-80% dry and then allow it to dry  fully before undoing and combing out or twisting/braiding out. The shape changer/stretcher in this case is the braid or twist.  You can also use rollers, flexi rods or curlformers (which are super easy to use!) to stretch out your hair. If you are intending to do a protective style with stretched out hair, you can stretch with any of the previously mentioned methods (braid/twist outs, roller sets or curlformers).

Optional  Add-ons:  Shrinkage control only lasts as long as moisture is not added to hair.  This includes environmental moisture like natural humidity or artificial (from your bathroom).  For free hair, maintaining a set style, will usually require you to keep your hair quite dry. Oil applied prior to styling will help reduce moisture take up from the air. However, remember that the drier your hair is, the less elasticity it has, therefore avoid stretching it any further once the style is completed.

You can also opt to use products to set your curls (works best with hair that can clump/form spiral curls).  Styling gels and conditioners can add weight to hair and help hold/enhance natural curls. This method relies on allowing quite a lot of shrinking to occur as the curl should not be disrupted as it sets.

Ladies, have you tried any of these methods? How do you decrease shrinkage?

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The Natural Haven

The Natural Haven

Scientist on a hairy mission!

 
  • Idara

    According to this article http://hollistics.com/2013/08/07/5-ingredients-to-avoid/ Behentrimonium Chloride is not a good thing to have in hair products.

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  • Saba

    Ugh I’m so frustrated with my hair, I live in a very humid area and the minute I step out of the house my hair soaks up all the water in the air, shrinks up and as a result looks super dry ????
    All I do right now is throw it in a high bun which I’m really getting sick of

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    • Jaybe

      I hear Glycerin is the way to keep the moisture balance in your hair when you live in humid areas.

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      • mimi

        Glycerine. Is a humectant. The culprit that attracts moisture from the hair and ruins your stretched styles. Its a good thing normally. But I don’t assume people want to put effort in to stretch their hair into a huge fro and then 6 seconds later it’s half of what it used to be. For stretched or straightened styles try not to use products with glycerine or other humectants in it.

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    • Tracy

      She’s right glycerin is great for moisture but when it’s humid and you want to keep a stretched style stay away….The glycerin will attract the moisture from the humid climate and cause your hair to shrink BUT you hair will feel like butter(literally).

      When it’s humid where I live I stay away from products with glycerin and I use more butter based product to help keep the extra frizz/shrinkage away.

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