3 Ways To Decrease Shrinkage | Black Girl with Long Hair Black Girl with Long Hair | Natural Hair Styles and Natural Hair Care

13 November 2011 ~ 31 Comments

3 Ways To Decrease Shrinkage


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By Jc of The Natural Haven

Shrinkage is an important issue in caring for natural hair. I am all for embracing shrinkage but this does not mean that I will allow my hair to fully demonstrate just how good it is at doing  this.  Controlling shrinkage does not mean hair has to be stretched out to full length all the time. It actually means learning when hair will shrink, how much it will shrink and how you can reduce this to a manageable level.  Controlling shrinkage has three main benefits:

1. Easier time detangling

2. Easier styling by being able to control the amount of stretch.

3. Breakage reduction i.e learning when your hair will stretch without breaking and when it won’t

Here is how to minimise shrinkage during each of the three basic steps of a simple hair routine:

1. Cleansing

The starting point of most hair routines involves dissolving oil on the hair so that it can be washed off with water. In order to do this, you require a shampoo, shampoo bar or soap of your choice.

 Controlling Shrinkage:  Shrinking during this step is generally expected but can be controlled by loosely braiding or twisting hair in large sections (between 8 and 15). This will generally prevent hair from fully coiling and tangling once it is in contact with water. It is best not to fight shrinkage beyond what braiding or twisting can do at this stage as although hair tends to feel more elastic when wet, it is actually weaker.

Optional Add-ons: Prior to washing, using a penetrating oil such as coconut oil can help control the amount of water that gets into hair. However,  remember that it may not be easy to see a visible impact as when hair is soaked in water, there is no oil that can fully prevent its entry into hair.

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31 Responses to “3 Ways To Decrease Shrinkage”

  1. Carla 14 November 2011 at 1:42 am Permalink

    I twist my hair (usually 6 large twists) when I wash my hair to minimize shrinkage, tangles, knots, SSKs, etc. It has helped my hair retain length because I have much less breakage than just letting my hair “go”. Its bra strap length at this point and stretching help with the care and management of my hair.

    • Lynn 2 January 2012 at 6:08 pm Permalink

      Do you twist the hair before shampooing or immediately after? Do you apply an oil after shampooing and before twisting? Thx for the input.

  2. Sieta 14 November 2011 at 4:19 am Permalink

    I tend to twist my hair in twists or braids to have it stretched out. I find that it really helps with the tangles and knots as well.

  3. Lacoya S. (thesupercoya) 14 November 2011 at 7:23 am Permalink

    Great article!!!!! Very helpful to me, as I use many of the methods mentioned here, just really helped to read some of the scientific parts behind it.

    Thanks!

  4. BigSyd 14 November 2011 at 8:10 am Permalink

    Banding is also a good method to stretch hair.

    • Jc 15 November 2011 at 4:11 am Permalink

      I did forget to add banding in the last section, it is definitely an option for some women.

      I think the reason why I forgot it is because it is not really a consistently successful method. Sometimes it gives hair indents which you do not want and then you have to rewet and braid/twist all over again.

      However, all that said, it is indeed a valid option!

  5. Jess 14 November 2011 at 8:11 am Permalink

    After washing and sealing, I usually braid my hair before I twist it so it can stay stretched longer.

  6. Tonya Juanise 14 November 2011 at 8:26 am Permalink

    I like to keep it simple, I decrease shrinkage with braid outs. I will start letting my hair air dry for a bit before I actually style after washing my hair.

  7. LBell 14 November 2011 at 10:06 am Permalink

    Done all of these successfully!

    Here’s something that I was reminded of this past summer: Keeping hair stretched in humid weather requires the use of some kind of anti-humectant. After trying several different leave-ins with no success, what finally worked for me and my water-loving hair was petrolatum (aka Vaseline). When I could, I bought some mineral oil-based grease (for the first time in YEARS) and got the same result. Score one for the old school!

    • Camille 14 November 2011 at 11:16 am Permalink

      Ditto for me. People side eye old-school vaseline and mineral oil, but I got (and still get) very good results.If anyone can recommend a natural alternative, I’d try but coconut oil, olive oil, and shea butter are not the ones.

      • Mazeratie 14 November 2011 at 6:06 pm Permalink

        Have you tried Castor Oil? It has the consistancy of a heavy, rich silicone so maybe it would give you the same results?

        I use it to seal after conditioning but before applying any gels or styling products. Aids in keeping my hair soft and crunch free while helping to protect my ends.

        • MissEducation 21 January 2012 at 10:37 am Permalink

          I agree with Mazeratie… Castor Oil is the only oil that has a comparable weight and hold to Vaseline…

          • cassieo 3 May 2012 at 10:38 pm Permalink

            Yeah but castor oil isn’t good for me if I want my hair to stay stretched especially in the summer. It is a humectant so my hair just poofs up with it since there is more moisture in the air. A nonhumectant oil that is heavy would be better. I would use a light oil, petroleum, or shea butter.

  8. Amma Mama 14 November 2011 at 10:53 am Permalink

    I LOVE Amaka’s afro puff!

  9. napfrocurlzgirl 14 November 2011 at 6:09 pm Permalink

    Interesting, I generally don’t worry about shrinkage, but it appears that shrinkage control is in contrast to having moisturized hair. If water is our friend, then shrinkage control would summarily be bad for our hair.

    • BJ 14 November 2011 at 7:48 pm Permalink

      I think this is true to an extent. However, in my case, if I don’t try to prevent shrinkage, I won’t be able to retain length because of all the little fairy knots I’ll have to cut out. I just make sure that after I wash my hair, I use a product to help to seal the water in for as long as possible. Then when it gets dry, I either decide to wash it or wet it and go back to preparing it for a stretched style.

    • AJ 14 November 2011 at 8:06 pm Permalink

      I don’t think that this assumption necessarily follows. I wear my hair in twists primarily, and I twist on wet hair. I then braid the twists and let them dry, which stretches the hair. I re-spritz my hair every night and rebraid to keep the hair stretched. I constantly keep moisture in my hair, but I don’t let my hair just shrink up to my ears, which is what will happen if I leave it alone (I’m APL stretched).

      I think it’s really dependent on the type of style you choose to do to stretch the hair, and whether it’s one that can accept moisture and still be stretched.

    • Jc 15 November 2011 at 4:05 am Permalink

      I agree with BJ and AJ. It is all about balance. Constantly wetting your hair without stretching it can lead to more knots and tangling. So what good is the water if it leads you to cutting your hair?

      I think that there is a really big difference between wet hair and moisturised hair. Moisturised hair is completely dry to the touch but retains flexibility and elasticity because the internal water absorbed by the hair has been trapped and therefore feels more supple and often softer.

      I think that it is quite difficult to explain what moisturised hair is in words, it is more straightforward to touch the hair. I do think though it is important to distinguish it from wet hair.

  10. Me 14 November 2011 at 6:28 pm Permalink

    I sit under a hood dryer for about 30 minutes on low then I use my shea butter mix and put my hair in about 6 to 8 braids…this method for me has prevented shrinkage real bad…plus I don’t like going to bed with damp hair…in the morning when I take my braids down my hair is full with very little shrinkage…

  11. Aisa 15 November 2011 at 2:35 am Permalink

    Banding seems to help many. I tried it once but you have to remember to not make the ponytails too close to your scalp. I think I was ripping out my poor edges. Braids work better for me than anything else. Twists are good too but my hair is at a stage where twists unravel by themselves. I don’t have time for that nonsense. Lol.

  12. Adobuere 15 November 2011 at 6:36 am Permalink

    This was very helpful because my hair is always stuff in the same twa but my hair is actually so much longer than it seems but bc the curls are so tight as soon as it gets any wet or moisture it’s back to the twa!! Thank you for the info! I’ll def try this out!

  13. ThePomadeShop 15 November 2011 at 9:10 am Permalink

    I minimize shrinkage by banding my hair with elastic bands.

  14. dani 15 November 2011 at 11:00 am Permalink

    This is such a issue for me. Because it seems like the most sensible thing for me to do is do a twist-out after i co-wash to keep it somewhat stretched out. BUT I LOVE HOW MY HAIR LOOKS WHEN I WASH AND GO! Then, also, sometimes, my twist-outs look a mess.

    • Jc 15 November 2011 at 5:52 pm Permalink

      So just switch between them! You do not have to protect your hair all the time. Do the wash and go when you want to and have time to deal with the shrinkage after. When you need to be efficient and quick, go for the twist out. If you have a length goal, why not protect for 3 weeks and then do whatever you like for the next week…….it is all about balance and having fun!

  15. LR 15 November 2011 at 9:29 pm Permalink

    What’s the advice for someone with fine hair that tightly coils?

    • Jc 16 November 2011 at 6:21 am Permalink

      The article was written for all naturals including myself (fine hair, tight coils). There really is nothing else to add to it (except the banding which was mentioned in the comment section).

      To answer your question, I would have to ask another question – What exactly do you want to achieve with your hair? If your hair has high shrinkage (like where 6 inches shrink down to 1-2 inches) then following these tips will help you possibly get to about 4 inches shrinkage. For most hair it is not possible to fully showcase the full length without heat straightening. If your hair is fine and tightly coiled, it is also likely to be heat sensitive and therefore reducing shrinkage to 4 inches is much more realistic and less damaging than showing off the full 6 inches.

  16. Petula 19 November 2011 at 6:54 pm Permalink

    I have never been able to successfully prevent shrinkage when I was natural. Now that I’m “returning to my roots” I’m hoping to utilize all that I’m learning for a successful transition and a definite natural hair love. Great article and advice.

  17. Cardenie 29 January 2012 at 2:43 pm Permalink

    I am finding that in order to prevent breakage once I’m pass a certain length, I have to keep my hair stretched. Just a few months ago, I washed my hair loose and it was a disaster. I had knots all over the place and was just barely able to separate my hair and do 8 twists for my curly fro (my go-to style nowadays). And just last week, during my monthly wash, I got the last knot out of my hair! I now keep my hair sectioned, twisted and pinned with duckbill clips throughout the entire washing, conditioning and sealing process, unless I am doing a wash-n-go. And I make sure I keep my ends moisturized.

  18. Candice 29 January 2012 at 8:29 pm Permalink

    Generally, I wash my hair, let it air dry for most of the day, and then before bed, when my hair is still a bit damp (sometimes I have to redampen my hair with a spray bottle), I put my hair into twists. I also put coconut oil on my twists at this point. I usually wear the twist for a couple of days as a protective style, and then when it starts to get frizzy, I wear my hair out and it’s pretty well stretched. I don’t worry too much about shrinkage though. I like my hair at all lengths. So nice to read an article that validates what I’ve been doing!

  19. Dawn 12 February 2012 at 4:28 am Permalink

    My issue is more so tangling than shrinkage. My curl pattern is fairly loose, so my curls tend to drop anyway. Especially the ends, where the flat iron has run the most. Now i am off the heat and have been substituting with curlformers since it achieves the same end without the damage


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