By Audrey Sivasothy, author of The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care
Interestingly, overconditioning is not so much a problem among newbies, but rather among those who’ve been around hair care much longer. Now before I get into the meat of the discussion, let me preface my statements by giving the mandatory “what works for some, may not work for all” speech. Obviously overconditioning, and the product usage patterns that tend to encourage it, vary from person to person. There are no official normative standards here, and as with all things hair– the only hard fast rule is that there are no hard fast rules. “Too much” for one head may be “too little” for another, etc. Therefore, all suggestions and advice, including this article, should be taken with a grain of salt and weighed and evaluated against your unique situation. With that said, let’s talk overconditioning!
Out in the “real world” overconditioning, or “tipping too far” on the moisture side of the protein/moisture balance, is virtually rare. Most ladies who aren’t particularly into hair care rarely use true moisturizing hair products, and when they do-it’s often sparingly. When hair breakage problems arise, this group tends to reach for heavy protein reconstructors that clearly state that they are formulated to prevent breakage. Because most moisturizing products do not tout their breakage reduction or strengthening capabilities on their bottles and packaging, these ladies tend to skip them over when breakage problems arise. Later, when these ladies find their way onto hair forums around the web, they are typically instructed to reduce their use of proteins and increase their moisture levels. 99.9% of the time, this infusion of moisture and increase in washing and deep conditioning frequency stops the breakage and gets their hair growing and healthy.
The problem of overconditioning seems to arise once the individual has been indoctrinated into all things hair. By now, she has figured out which products are protein-based and which are more moisture leaning-and here, the tendency to over moisturize tends to develop. She develops an aversion to protein and throws all of her resources into achieving a perpetual “moisture high.” The proliferation of true “protein overload” stories may have gotten her to this point! She knows that there is a gentle, often tricky balance to maintain but she puts all of her eggs in her moisturizing basket just to be safe. She may even realize that different proteins have different properties, and some actually improve the hair’s elasticity rather than toughen the strands-but she’s not taking any chances with protein period. This aversion causes her to moisturize and overcondition her hair until the cows come home often through:
- overzealous “baggying”
- back-to-back conditioner washes that don’t allow the hair to ever dry
- regular lengthy/ overnight deep conditionings
- keeping the hair wet in general (water or oil) for extended periods of time without a break
- the complete elimination of protein products altogether.
She may have taken my “err on the side of moisture” advice to heart just a little too much! Yes, protein overload is problematic-and it can take a while to correct, but overconditioning also has its own set of issues.
Thanks for the information. I just do a moisture deep condition one week then a protein condition the next week. And that keeps my hair balance. I shampoo with Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus shampoo. but I’m looking at 4bnfree YT channel and learning about making my castile soap shampoo. I make my own shea butter mixes and seal with coconut oil. My hair is doing okay.
I bought the author’s book and am reading it as we speak. I’m half way through the book. Very informative in easy to understand terms (the science of it). I recommend her book to anybody who’s interested in learning more about the anatomy of our hair in order to better care for it. Bravo Audrey!
I have her book also. I agree with you.
When I feel like I’m over moisturizing, I hurry and throw Benoite clay on my hair to set my protein and moisture balance straight. It’s back strong, shiny and isn’t gummy or pop when I touch it. Over moisturizing is bad.
THANK YOU for this article! And for the wonderful edifying comments. My hair has been a horror show of late, and I had no idea that over-moisturizing was a thing – but then, we curly-haired white girls with straight-haired mothers are a clueless lot indeed. First thing in the morning, I’m heading out to buy a protein conditioner (of which I have never heard until just now… dear sweet jesus, I need help).
That was a very good article. I was on my way to over moisturizing my hair and over bagging it too. Thank you for writing this article, it has been so helpful.
How do you correct the problem of the hairs at the back of my head being over-moisturised while the centre and top of my hair is balanced? I think this is the problem because right now they are in medium sized twists and those at the back are all stretchy as if I had a blow-out a few days ago ( which I didn’t). The twists are not really locking into place, threatening to unravel but not just yet. While the rest of my head is bouncy, and the twists have stayed put.
Help any suggestions will be greatly appreciated becasue wash day is Saturday!!!
P.S I don’t have two hair types..just the one.
I think I have overmoisturized!! My corkscrew curls are no more! I’m soooo sad :(
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