By Audrey Sivasothy, author of The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care
“How long will it take me to grow out my hair and reach my hair length goals?”
This question, and the many variations of it, is one of the most frequently asked hair questions I get. Unfortunately, it is also one of the toughest questions to answer. Many factors determine the length of time it takes for a person to grow out their hair and reach certain hair lengths. This article will try to offer some guidance for length planning. As you read, bear in mind that the time estimates listed for growing out the hair in this article are just that-estimates. You’ll see that by the number of “typicallys and generallys” sprinkled throughout the article. There are just so many factors that influence when hair length goals are met including genetics, your anatomical structure, and the level of care and attention you give your hair. Growing out the hair takes years of consistent, diligent care. Though many folks are interested in achieving longer hair lengths, they do not realize the significant time investment that is involved in growing hair. Unrealistic goals and magical creams and potions that promise faster growth results but fall short on the promises make it easy to become discouraged. The only tried and true method for growing out the hair is good old fashioned time. Never fails!
General Considerations
Hair grows approximately ½ inch per month, for a total of six inches in one year. This rate is an average across races. Asian hair grows slightly faster than this average, Caucasian hair grows near the average,and black hair trends to grow at or just below this average each month. Genetics will also influence how close to the average ½ inch you get each month. Ultimately, the estimated time length for growing out the hair and reaching any hair length goal depends on two main factors: each individual person’s hair growth rate and their retention ability. A faster hair grower will always reach their goals sooner than a slower grower if the retention rates are the same. A slower grower will reach their goals consistently over a faster grower who poorly retains their length. Two individuals may grow their hair at the same exact rate while only one reaches her hair goals consistently, this is an instance of an ends retention problem for one of the growers. I often hear ladies say, “My hair is not growing, no matter what I do”-and for chemically relaxed ladies in particular we see that this is not true every 8-10 weeks when they are going in to have their relaxer retouched! Your hair is ALWAYS growing, retention may be the issue.
The Typical Process
Growing out the hair tends to follow a certain path. Generally changes in the look, thickness, and feel of the hair come first. Usually it is within the first 3-4 months of your hair journey that you’ll notice these improvements in thickness, and this tends to happen before you ever see any additional length. The big difference in length usually happens around 6-8 months into the journey provided you have been diligent with your hair care. For me, I started my journey in about June/July of a year, and noticed my hair getting thicker around October of the year. By December and January, I could see the length starting to come as well.
The timetable below is one that is suggested by the literature, but my personal hair growing experience has been different with personal setbacks, style changes, and trims all throughout my journey. Be forewarned, it is a very generalized timetable and not something you should feel compelled to follow to the letter. I certainly have strayed from the mark! Please note that this timetable is so open to interpretation that I almost hesitate to post it here, but some may find it useful!
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Very informative (I already knew most of this). This article came just in time for me to bleach test few strands of hair in the back area of my head. “Why?” you might ask because the best way to know your actual growth is the measure from the root, a fellow BGLH follower gave me the idea. Once I know what my actual rate of growth versus my retention rate I can see how good or bad or specific my situation is when it comes to retaining length and rate of breakage. The beginning of the month is a perfect time to do this test.
I am very curious to what the results will be.
Wish me luck.
I totally agree about the bleach method. When I went natural the first time in 2009, I had colored my hair not for growth reasons though. Over time, I realized the separation between the my natural color and color treated hair was significant. That ultimately let me know, my hair was growing.
Bi
feeling really miserable 19 months ofgrowth – 2 years will be this May but convinced for the last six months my hair has NOT been growing.
I have tried dying the back a lite brown colour so that i will be able to tell – But it was dark enough so consequently I couldnt see. i’m afraid of bleach – never bleached before – as I always felt it would break the hair! Did u find the bleached hair dry and wispy? did u do it yourself?
Oh and before I forget also because these numbers provided are based on math, one must take the total estimated growth of the year and subtract the average trim multiplied by frequency yearly. Of course this is under the assumption, that the hair completely healthy and doesn’t suffer from breakage and single strand knots.
Yearly growth rate – (average trim length x frequency per year) = Realistic Yearly Length Retention
:)
* Disclaimer: this doesn’t take in account , changes or health or stress, breakage (resulting from physical manipulation, dryness, hot tools, and chemicals), your hair tendency tangle, Single strand knots, clogged pores, on set of hair loss, thinning hair (do to ponytails, buns, tight cornrows, weaves, extensions), disease and ACTS OF GOD. :P
er…the article to did infer to take the info with a grain of salt as results were not guaranteed. Did you not read the article in full?
i’m not trying to throw shade at the author. i have this book (it’s a bit overpriced tho…)
i wanted to know what her educational background is. i’ve seen “health scientist” but at what level of education can you be considered a health scientist – b.s., m.s., or phd?
normally, someone with a masters or phd will put it after their name, esp. on a book – audrey davis sivasothy, m.s., phd, md, mph, etc…
I bought this book for a friend (long story short, I keep giving her hair advice, she won’t listen to me, so I figure she will listen if it’s in a book, lol). The book aggregates information easily found online and personally, it is great for beginners or those who don’t have time to spend looking online, and it has helped many women with their hair journeys. I am not trying to throw shade either, but often have some questions regarding her articles.
I’m not sure if Audrey Davis Sivasothy is a health scientist either. I work as a nutritionist and some of her health and nutrition advice in her book is a little off. To her credit, a lot of hair gurus give out nutrition information to grow hair, and that information is slightly skewed. As long as you are eating, have no vitamin deficiencies, and are fairly healthy (i.e. no diseases or such) your hair is going to grow. It may not be the healthiest, but I have seen many unhealthy, overweight women with poor eating habits come in to my office with some long hair. In fact, I’ve seen many more vegetarians and vegans come in with less healthy hair due to the fact that they are eating considerably less calories needed to sustain their bodies. If the author was a health scientist, she would know the mis-information regarding that fact, so I personally, don’t think she is a health scientist (especially one specializing in health and fitness).
I also want to point out that some of her information is contradictory. In this article she says that BSL is attainable in 3 years, but here (http://blackgirllonghair.com/2011/11/genetics-do-they-determine-hair-length/) she says it takes 2 years. I am not trying to throw shade either, but I some of her articles make me wonder.
Out of curiosity, why is it that what she writes is taken apart, but when JC post information on this site, it is taken as gospel? I have found contradictory information to what she post as well.
I’m not being sarcastic by the way, just genuinely curious as to what makes one person’s ideas more valid than the other.
Personally, whenever I read any beauty advice, I look at it under a microscope just because it may work for me and it may not (whenever I see a youtuber use gel or heat, I keep moving, that stuff is just no go for my hair regardless of the science). I will admit a bias to Jc because I have been reading her blog since I went natural almost 3 years ago. I don’t believe everything she writes, but when I started out a lot of her information helped me.
I have no problem with Audrey either, if I were newly natural or just beginning my journey, I would probably buy her book. I also have recommended it to others on more than one occasion. She has a lot of invaluable information that would benefit many ladies (and it has). Beauty gurus naturally contradict themselves (how many youtubers have I watched that say heat is bad but use it for all of their videos), so I really have no problem with it. I just remembered it from a previous post and it was more so of a question of which is it, 2 years or 3 years.
My main problem with Audrey (and also many beauty/hair gurus which I have pointed out on this site also) is their nutrition advice. Healthy nutrition (and exercise) is definitely important and will make a difference in hair. The thing is that difference is more so the difference between good and great. Like I said, I have seen many unhealthy, overweight women come in with long hair but their hair is nothing spectacular. An unhealthy diet may contribute to missing out on a hair goal by a couple of weeks to a month as opposed to the perceived hair won’t grow if you’re not healthy.
(Also, I never took your comment negatively. I saw it as just a question. And it was a good and valid question at that.)
That’s fair. Why don’t you contact the owner of this site and post why you think we should not be so quick to create a cause and effect relationship between nutrition and hair health? It sounds like you know what you’re talking about and it would be interesting to see the feedback.
I once said that on a natural hair Facebook page and got slammed for it!! When I went to a hair fair back in London a couple years ago, this famous trichologist said that as long as you are breathing, your hair will grow!!! I used to be obsessed with these forums and YT but not anymore. I think a lot of them make natural hair more complicated than it needs to be, and they aren’t always honest.
(1 comments)This is intntesrieg.. I always have a problem with my hair.. I always suffer from hair fall and no matter what product of shampoo and conditioner I will use to control my hair fall problem but nothing happened.. So I must as well try this recommended products that you suggested.. Thanks for this!
for me, the natural hair gurus, be they on blogs or on youtube have started to annoy me a bit.
the faux product reviews and misinformation about the simplest things is annoying and sometimes dishonest.
i’ve just noticed lately that there are so many self-appointed experts on youtube for ex, who just because they have subscribers just talk about whatever and give advice which is sometimes just plain stupid, and of course uninformed.
honestly, i’ve got a few issues with jc, but i think she’s a bit more clear about her credentials. although i do sometimes find her confusion. but i like that little mag.
ms sivosothy gives these nebulous credentials and i’ve got no idea whether it’s true. i don’t care if she wants to write a book about hair. others have done it. but, if you’re talking about it as a science and you are calling yourself a scientist, then please tell me what your credentials are.that’s usually how it would work. i think it’s strange how i can’t find that information.
i mean, it would be pretty unacceptable if i claimed to be something without actually showing that i am that with at least the letters behind my name.
a health scientist? in general, saying you’re just a scientist doesn’t mean all that much to me unless you are specifically studying things that relate to hair or those things that may relate to it.
i just sorta think there are some people (not saying ms sivosothy is necessarily one) who are taking advantage a bit of the natural hair thing and the audience that is desperate for information and guidance.
but like i said, i bought this book. i intended to return it, but missed the deadline. there is some good information. i figured out a few things that were happening to my hair as a result of reading it. actually, this book is what inspired me to revisit my pre-youtube watching hair regime/products. and my hair is much better because i did that.
I cosign on the product reviews. I hate that they get the products for free and spend very little time actually testing it before they pimp it out to their viewers. The only one who I respect and trust when it comes to product reviews is Naptural85. She will take a year trying something before she talks about it.
I too co-sign on Napptural85.
Agreed. She’s awesome.
I loved your comment…Agree 100%
honestly if you’re in it for the length, you’ll suffer having a twa. of course every girl wants length but they should honestly be in it for the health of their tresses. length is a bonus to having healthy, natural hair. not the other way around.
if you treat your hair right, use protective styles, stick with a hair regimen, cover it at night, and avoid heat/chemicals/coloring, you’ll see results before you know it.
Hi Mops,
There is nothing wrong with desiring length and having that goal in mind with you start your journey. Everyone has a right to make whatever choices about their hair. If length is your goal, then figure out what will it take for you to get there. Reading this article may be one way of doing due deligence. I would also like to say that this lady was very clear that she was writing from her own experiences. Everyone throwing “shade” is uncalled for.
Thank you, this article was right on time for me. I bc in dec w/only a couple months transition so I have a short twa and although I’m enjoying & embracing this stage, I can’t help but wonder how long it will be by summer… will I finally be able to do some of those fun styles or stuck in the wash & go purgatory :-) Think I’ll download this book as another resources in my journey.
Don’t bother buying/downloading this woman’s book all the stuff she says is free on the internet, I was bitterly disappointed when I read it.
I’d been natural for years before I found websites like this on how to care for natural hair. These sites are all you need no expensive books with no colour photos necessary.
Last year January my hair was just past the nose bridge between my eyes now it is past my bottom lip in the front. My back hair is like 4c and tougher to grow but it is finally touching my shoulder.
I stick to washing and conditioning my hair once a week, sometimes I just co-wash. I apply my homemade leave in conditioner, seal and then flat twist it like CharyJay of 160days2lose2 on YouTube and apart from spritzing with oil aloe vera mix I leave it alone until the next wash day. I wear my hair out maybe once a month this has resulted in me finally retaining length.
If you look after your hair and leave it alone it will retain length, of course it is not as long as I want it to be but I’m only aiming for shoulder length hair so by Christmas 2012 I should be there. Good luck, Naz xoxo
Great job Naz! I would clarify “leave it alone”. I met a lady who left her hair alone under wigs and weave asked me why her hair won’t grow after 7 years. I told her, you have to moisturize and detangle your hair. I hoped she listened, because it looked like she haven’t seen her hair in ages and that was just by looking at her edges.
You go girl!
LOL. I am BSL. Always been natural.
DJKSDNSD.
And I thought my hair was short.
I guess no one is really satsified until they reach their hair goals!
While I appreciate the general sentiment of the article, there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to growing long, healthy hair. Yes, growth cycles and genetics play a big role, but sometimes (not saying for everyone) its just like rolling dice.
Case in point, I’ve been trying to get my hair to grow for about 2.5 years and just recently saw a spurt in growth. I started eating healthier and working out, but most important, I found a very simple routine and basic products that my hair loves and stick to it. Just as I listen to my body, I listen to my hair when its lacking moisture, is styled too tight, etc.
Now, on the flip side, my sister eats like a pig, hasn’t exercised in a decade, doesn’t do any of the things forums and blogs suggest, ops for professional straightening every other week (from stylists that sometimes use high temperatures) with no heat damage to boot and beautiful, healthy hair that makes me jealous. What I’m trying to say is, following steps a, b, and c don’t always mean that your hair will reach a certain length and some people have more luck than others.
I, regret relaxing my hair, even though I did so when I was an emotional mess!
But now, even though the ladies and sometimes Men “ooh & aaah” at my tresses, I still long for my full unequalled thick Afro. I have a plan! ‘Have a half-relaxed ‘icing’ and half-afro underneath #LAUGH#… I cant imagine chopping off my 5 year old hair :( .
see a pix of my hair now, among my pics on facebook @ kachi blessing esther.
Your hair has a way of telling you it does’nt like a product, just way your skin would react too.And genetics lend a helping hand as well. I agree with Nat.
It is really important to enjoy your hair journey every step of the way. Why waste so much time in your life being unhappy with X or Y? I want mid-back length hair..but am only nearing armpit length. It has been a long journey with a plenty of mistakes etc, but I made it a point of enjoying my hair at every step–from TWA to full on dianna ross hair. Each stage has its advantages! my twa was aodrable and soooo easy…my hair now is lovely and full and jusssst about to flop down, so it looks awkward sometimes..my solution? Getting some fierce updos together. Enjoy the journey ladies! why be unhappy for 4 years (till your hair is where yo want it to be) it would have been your hair and your life all along.
much love and happy growing!
+1
My hair is a little past BSL and it took revampling my regime to get it there. I stop trimming and I do more protective styles. I may flat iron 2 times a year. I transitioned from 2006 -2008 (had a texturizer) and from 2008-2009 I was aggressively trimming my hair every 6-8 weeks and I dyed it in 2010. December 2009 my hair was a little past my shoulder and now its about 1 in past my bra strap (horizontal), so about 10-12 inches. I credit vitamins, biotin, protective styles and water among other things. My daughter hair has grown like a weed too and I treat her hair just as gentle now and received similar results. (She doesn’t take pills, her hair is way courser and denser than mine) So don’t give up if length is one of your goals. My ultimate goal is to have my unstraighten hair BSL, which mean straighten hair must be waist length.
I agree with Mops and Monisola.
i want bsl. i’m actually on a extension regimen of sorts where i leave my hair in extensions for an entire year, approximately. just began yesterday and i intend to keep them in at two months at a time. i can’t wait to see the results. i actually take better care of my hair when it’s in extensions than when it’s not. i actually moisturize it everyday, wash it with way more frequency, because of itchy scalp, and massage it a lot more when it’s in braids. so last time i took out my braids, my hair had miraculously appeared at my armpits. since i hadn’t been wearing the extensions, though, for five months more hair managed to stay at armpit length, because of everyday manipulation. so i finally put two and two together and realized my hair seems to thrive best in them, and come out healthy and rejuvenated to boot. like, everyone noticed. so sometimes you gotta pay attention to what your hair is telling you, rather than stare at it too hard. and enjoy the styles. i’m def enjoying the break away from having to style my hair. it’s just that my added-on tresses are so dang heavy now! i wish my real hair were, lol.
Ive been growing my hair out since 2010. After my hair stylist trimming my ends my weaver trimming my end it’s just shoulder length and thin. I want my hair to at least be apl. Hopefully by next year I will be able to achieve that length.
what is hair retention?
Length retention is hanging on to the hair that grows out of your scalp by way of health haircare techniqes. This term focus on the hair shaft and ends rather than the root–hair is always growing but what we do to it (haircare, hairstylng, etc) causes it to break and appear not to grow. A fixation with hair growth is not as useful as a focus on length reteion gained throughhealth hair care practices.
I did my BC in September 22,2009. I have been heat and chemical free since then. I did my first trim in November of 2011 and cut about 1/2 inch. My hair in the back is about 1 -1 1/2 inches from the bottom of my bra strap and the front is a little shorter. I don’t have a goal length, as long as its healthy. I’m not as conscious about my hair routine asap I would like to be( I don’t sleep in a satin scarf every night ) I usually do wash n gos most days of summer months, in colder weather I do protective styles, I shampoo once a week along with a deep condition, and I moisturize like my life depends on it. Detangling is my biggest struggle because I have very tight curls and coils and if I don’t do it properly I lose hair.just out of curiosity I will over the next year tale extra care and see if I notice faster hair growth.
Consider washing your hair in twists. Before I wash my hair, I make about 12-16 twists in my hair and then shampoo and condition my hair in twists. When I take the twists out to detangle, I find that it takes me only 15 minutes to detangle my hair and it is much easier. My hair is a little past BSL, so 15 minutes is pretty good for that length.
Wow. I see Ms. Sivasothy hit a nerve…
The simple answer to the question is: IT TAKES AS LONG AS IT TAKES.
As mangomadness said above, fixating on growth (which you have VERY LITTLE control over) is not nearly as useful as focusing on taking optimal care of your hair (which you have A LOT of control over) so that you can retain more of it.
Now I’m not a scientist of any kind and my master’s degree is an MFA so feel free to dismiss this. *lol* *smh*
Agreed.
I believe it’s all in the genetics, because I have seen some youtubers that have cut off their hair and within a year or 2. The hair is at the long length that it was before they cut it. Example: chakakhanian and naptural85. I’ve seen some people whose hair has never grown and it was still short, and I’m like what happened. As long as you leave don’t go over board with the styles and put to much pressure on your hair then you should be fine. Moisture is key, and low manipulation and just down right leaving it alone, so wearing you do leave it in 2 strand twists or braids under a wig your hair will grow.
On a side note, I saw this picture while viewing http://www.kinkyandproud.net/ tumblr site, and her hair and outfit is gorgeous.
How often is “aggressively trimming”? What’s a good amount of time to go between trims?
“Aggressively trimming” is cutting hair unnecessarily, such as when people schedule trims every month or every other month. No one can say what a good amount of time to go between trims is because it will vary from individual to individual. Honestly, trimming is only necessary if there is damage, such as split ends or single strand knots. If there is no damage you’re doing nothing but cutting off perfectly good, healthy hair for the sake of keeping a schedule. If you can eliminate damage, or minimize it to the point that you only trim infrequently (like once or twice a year) trimming sort of becomes unnecessary. Look up pictures of Teri LaFlesh. She doesn’t trim her hair at all and her 3c/4a curls come down to her hips.
Everybody is not Teri LaFlesh. Some ppl need and benefit from “agressive trimming”. What works for you does not necessarily work for anyone else and should not be dismissed as unnecessary.
She said “cutting hair unnecessarily”. So if you need to “aggressively trim” then it may be due to your styling techniques. Like over combing, styling, dry ends, and detangling process just to name a few. So trimming is not a magic bullet, but a tool that is a part of your regime tool kit. I have dealt with all types of hair and one thing I find in common including with straight-haired white people with hip length hair is their hairstyles are low maintence and they barely bother with it. The general rules always apply. :-)
Aggressively trimming is trimming the hair when it doesn’t need to be trimmed. As an example every-time I deal with my hair, guess what I also have with me? That’s right! A pair of scissors.
Growing long hair takes time no matter what and i guess some people just want a shortcut.Anything worth having is hard work.
I don’t think we should bash Audrey Sivathothy as her articles are helpfuland i prefer to have them all in one place a book is a good idea.
The way i see it, if the advice helps my hair journey go smoother i’m happy. :)
Whether the advice is coming from Teri Laflesh,Lorraine Massey or a youtuber then i swtich to student mode and want to take notes as you can learn from anyone in my view especially if they are doing something that works.
I enjoy JC’s blog as it has helped me to have more critical thinking and not just absorb stuff but to check it out,i can now decode an ingrdient list and make a choice upon that alone.I would never have been able to, if i didn’t follow her blog as her approach is clear: do the products work? It really isn’t rocket science…. i couldn’t help the pun. LOL
I just wanted to say that I really love your hair. It is so long and pretty. I’ve been natural for a little over a year and have tremendous growth. I figured out that as the hair grows it harder to manage, or at least mine is. I get a lot of compliments about my fro but if only they knew what I had to go through.Thanks for posting this article. Very helpful
Very helpful and encouraging info :) I have been completely natural for 7 months and have already seen tons of growth, but of course health comes first. I have set hair goals for myself already! I’m aiming for Waist Length in my natural curly state but I don’t have a set time frame bc I have amazing shrinkage! I am super excited about my natural journey! Thank you ladies :)
I started my natural hair journey about 2 years ago and didn’t really start to track my hair growth until 8 months ago. I have type 4c west African hair. I didn’t expect fast hair growth so my hope was to retain length at least. I usually braid my hair and wear them for about 2 months. I don’t believe in fast hair growth supplements and diets, however I do use Mane n Tail to wash and condition. Much to my surprise I would notice faster hair growth, usually a bit over 1 inch in 2 months. Others have had success with hair growth and retention by using Mane n Tail products.
I can see why you do not rely on fast hair growth and supplements. However, do not forget that without an appropriate diet, you hair will not receive the nutrients that it needs to grow. It is good that you also pay attention to the products that you use but products only help length retention and not actual hair growth. Therefore a good diet, exercise, low manipulation and a good regimen result in healthy hair. If you neglect one it can affect your hair. Now how it will affect your hair depends on the person and many other factors.