By Fran of

I’ve fig­ured out that hair growth, for me at least, means keep­ing my hair in a pro­tec­tive style more often than not. If you were to track my hair reg­i­men for an entire mon­th, you’d find me in twists or braids 3 weeks out of the 4. I sort of look at the wash & go style as a “cheat” week, where I know it’s doing absolute­ly noth­ing to keep my hair healthy but I get to show off my hard work!

When my hair is in twists (or braids), I’m a lot bet­ter at keep­ing my hair detan­gled and mois­tur­ized.

I sim­ply unrav­el each piece every few days and fin­ger comb to ensure my hair is knot free. I add more pro­duct as need­ed. How­ev­er, with a wash & go, my hair is com­plete­ly exposed to the ele­ments. That free-ness is fun but way hard­er to keep mois­tur­ized since I’m usu­al­ly more con­cerned with the “look” of the style than my actu­al mois­ture lev­els. To be hon­est, my wash & gos look so much bet­ter when they’re super messy and even a bit dry. That day before wash day, when it’s time to let the style final­ly go, is always the best hair day! Any­one else feel that way? Now you under­stand why I don’t do this often!

On wash day, I usu­al­ly start off by fin­ger-detan­gling my hair with extra vir­gin coconut oil. I do this in small sec­tions and twist each piece as I go along, to keep it in place. This helps me min­i­mize break­age in the show­er, since water makes your hair extra frag­ile. Once my hair is com­plete­ly worked through, I sat­u­rate my hair with deep con­di­tion­er, usu­al­ly the Purifi­ca­tion Masque by Shea Mois­ture, and sit under my Hueti­ful Steam­er for 20 min. Deep con­di­tion­ing before wash­ing my hair helps min­i­mize break­age even fur­ther. There’s some­thing about going into the wash process with strands that are already tan­gle free and but­tery soft. It makes it less daunt­ing and stress­ful!

In the show­er, I mas­sage and cleanse my scalp with the Raw Shea But­ter Restora­tive Con­di­tion­er by Shea Mois­ture. Con­sid­er­ing my hair has already been worked through, this process takes me less than 10 min. Once I’m out, I imme­di­ate­ly add some Curly But­ter by Bee Mine, if I’m pro­tec­tive styling. I love fin­ger-comb­ing pro­duct into my hair while it’s soak­ing wet. I feel it absorbs into my strands bet­ter and gives me more def­i­n­i­tion and shine once dried. The Curly But­ter is per­fect for me because it’s all nat­u­ral, so it’s healthy, but it also has a lit­tle bit of hold so my twists stay nice and neat. I then seal with some pure Aloe Vera by Aubrey Organ­ics. I’ve tried seal­ing with dif­fer­ent types of oils but they all con­sis­tent­ly weigh me down. The watery and light con­sis­ten­cy of Aloe allows my hair some body and full­ness. I then pro­ceed with my two strand twists, doing around 8 on each side.

I fin­ish my process by spritz­ing my ends with some water and then seal­ing with Jamaican Black Cas­tor Oil, for more pro­tec­tion and mois­ture. I’ll leave the­se in for about a week before wash­ing and re-doing the entire process. I fin­ger-detan­gle, with the coconut oil, at least one time dur­ing the week (then re-do the style) to make sure my hair stays knot free. At night I cov­er my hair with a Loc-Soc or Sue Maes­ta hood­ed head­band to keep my twists in place.

Dur­ing my one “cheat” week, my wash & go style, I sim­ply rake in some Kinky Curly Knot Today into fresh­ly washed, drip­ping wet hair. I then seal with the Aloe as well. Once those three lay­ers are cre­at­ed (water, leave-in, sealant) I light­ly press my hair with a Curl Cloth to help speed the process of air-dry­ing. 4 hours lat­er, my hair is usu­al­ly ful­ly dried and ready to go!

To pre­serve my curls at night, I wear my hair in a loose and high pony­tail at the top of my head (the pineap­ple) and sleep on a sat­in pil­low­case. The sat­in helps my curls retain their mois­ture and shine. The next morn­ing, I sim­ply add some Knot Today to my wet palms and run it over the top lay­er of my hair to refresh the curls and help min­i­mize frizz. I repeat this process every morn­ing, for a week, until it’s time for wash day again.

If you’d prefer some visu­als, feel free to watch the­se steps, from begin­ning to end, on my YouTube!

Fran is the author of Fol­low her on Twit­ter @heyfranhey.

I’m a nat­u­ral hair, nutri­tion and fit­ness blog­ger from New York City. Bat­tling a kid­ney relat­ed ill­ness that doc­tors couldn’t seem to fix, I became obsessed with alter­na­tive med­i­cine. After months of research­ing and final­ly cur­ing myself, it became quite evi­dent that healthy resources in our urban com­mu­ni­ties were lack­ing. I began my health & well­ness tum­blr in Dec of 2010 as some­what of a jour­nal, hop­ing to shed some light on my jour­ney to health as well as our dis­con­nec­tion with healthy liv­ing. It’s been my goal to cre­ate a safe haven where our well­ness con­cerns could be shared and hope­ful­ly cured, as nat­u­ral­ly as pos­si­ble.

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41 Comments on "Fran’s 3B/3C Styling Regimen"

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[…] if this is what Cipri­ana and Fran­ny are doing on wash day, may­be I should get back to pre-poo­ing too. My hair loves extra vir­gin […]


I am look­ing for a way to wear my hair down how you do dur­ing your cheat week on a dai­ly basis or more than when I can afford to go to the salon and have a pro­fes­sion­al do the whole Deva Curl sys­tem on me (which I have tried to mim­ic on sev­er­al ocas­sions and FAILED) is that a pos­si­bil­i­ty if or if not what meth­ods would you rec­om­mend in addi­tion or dele­tion to what you already have stat­ed. If pos­si­ble please respond via email


I first would like to say your hair is real­ly beau­ti­ful. I have col­or on the ends of my hair and im get­ting frus­trat­ed because it wont curly up on the ends. I want­ed to know how to get rid of the col­or with­out cut­tin or dam­ag­ing my hair?


Wow. That bit about hair look­ing great just before wash day is sooo true! Lol! I also love Lilith Moon’s PS moves. She makes it look easy!


Beau­ti­ful Hair!!!


I wish I could do more pro­tec­tive styling on my 3C! I’m just so bad at styling! #1 I’ve NEVER been good at styling my hair… like ever. Even when it was relaxed. #2 I can nev­er find the time to just sit down and play in my hair.
Hope­ful­ly this sum­mer I’ll be able to find the time to try some new styles. I co-wash and go every 3 days. I have knots, fairy knots, and I think that my nat­u­ral hair has reached my shoul­ders and I have stopped retain­ing length. :-(


Hi Fran I LOVE your hair and I recent­ly big chopped last mon­th so now I have a super cute 3b/3c twa that is start­ing to grow rapid­ly! :-) My ques­tion is what kind of pro­tec­tive styles/ regimes can I try on my not so long hair?

While you are in a pro­tec­tive style, Hair­In­fin­i­ty works from the inside out. It’s an all nat­u­ral vit­a­m­in that has MSM in it which extends the grow­ing stage of your hair. The oth­er ingre­di­ents are Biot­in, Horse­tail, Folic, your B’s to name a few. You will see results with­in a mon­th. You’ll def­i­nite­ly will see the growth in the pro­tec­tive stage. You won’t be dis­ap­point­ed. It is sug­gest­ed to take it at night while the body is at rest, heal­ing and repair­ing itself. Also, it’s not in a stress state. It can be tak­en any­time of the day with the… Read more »

I am cur­rent­ly grow­ing out of a perm and can now see the nat­u­ral pat­tern of my hair which is curly. I am about a 1/4 inch away from BSL. I think I’m going to try twisties and see how well that goes. I’m look­ing for­ward to more growth.

Thanks so much for all that you share. I fol­low and love your Tum­blr blog. I have type 4 hair but I appre­ci­ate your all nat­u­ral, no heat, no chem­i­cals approach to great hair. I have been revis­ing my reg­i­men since my BC and have tak­en your reg­i­men (along with Nap­tural85 of YouTube) as my “inspi­ra­tion.” I do believe I will be using straight aloe vera juice soon on my hair. I used to use the Kim­may­tube Leave-In, which worked great, but real­ized that the aloe was what was real­ly mak­ing my hair POP! I most like­ly will be using… Read more »

Such beau­ti­ful hair, thx for shar­ing your reg­i­men!


Your hair is gor­geous, if I saw you in pub­lic I would be like wow just wow :). Also I saw this hair­style even though it’s on a cau­si­can lady, but she does great hair tuto­ri­al “lilithedark­moon” youtu­ber it might look good on you as well. Titled: Ele­gant updo for medi­um long hair tuto­ri­al Easy every­day hair­style for straight and curly hair 


Thank You!!!!! I have been try­ing to find some­body with my hair type and noth­ing. Then I lucked upon you. YAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!! So, Im going to try your reg­i­men.… Yipp­py!!


AT last I can see the face behind some of the most inter­est­ing pieces here. Your hair is off the hook!


Hey Fran,

Your hair is love­ly. How long have you been nat­u­ral and for how long have you been fol­low­ing this reg­i­men.


I love your hair. I have 3b/3c hair and try­ing to grow it out. Looks gor­geous!


Hey Fran =) You and your hair are gor­geous! Im not a 3bc girl, but I can appre­ci­ate a beau­ti­ful head of hair!


[…] the arti­cle here: Fran’s 3b/3c Styling Reg­i­men | Black Girl with Long Hair This entry is filed under […]


Thank you for this, I like to see some dif­fer­ent tex­tures.


This is the same rou­tine I fol­lowed dur­ing my first year. I real­ly need to get back to that. Your hair is absolute­ly beau­ti­ful!


Hey Fran! I know this is off top­ic, but will you be doing a skin reg­i­men soon? Thanks!


I have start­ed this process 3 weeks ago and even in that short peri­od of time I have noticed a dif­fer­ence in my hair.


That’s pret­ty much my sys­tem!! Lol. I only let my hair our in pub­lic with a ‘wash and go’ once a mon­th bas­cal­ly.


This was real­ly good for me! Thanks! My hair is not that long curly so what type of pro­tec­tive styles do you sug­gest for not quite to shoul­der length hair? When straight­ened it is down my back but the draw up fac­tor is seri­ous!


Absolute­ly LOVE it! I also have type 3b/3c hair. This is very sim­i­lar to my reg­i­men. On my way to youtube to sub­scribe! You are sim­ply BEAUTIFUL!


I will be try­ing this meth­ods on my own hair…especially the 3/4 weeks of pro­tec­tive styling! Thanks Fran…Hey!!