By Jc of The Natural Haven
I have previously written about the possibility of African hair actually growing at a slower rate. However it should still get you to one foot of hair. I think that there is a huge disconnect for us in the triangular relationship that is retention, breakage and mechanics (i.e Hair does not gain length because the ends broke off. The ends broke off because they were either weakened or were pulled with excessive force.)
Truth is many of us are not willing to accept that WE are the reason why hair is not growing. We want it to be genetics or a hair product. It simply cannot be our fault.
Going natural is not going to automatically help your hair get longer (especially so if your curl is tighter).
Here is what I have observed
1. Long haired naturals (with a type 4 texture) LIVE in twists or braids (especially so in the beginning 2-3 years). The basic regimen is wash, condition and twist up for 3-4 weeks (and even longer). Hair is out for a weekend or a few days and then back to to the 3-4 weeks of twists.
2. Long haired naturals with a looser texture LIVE in protective styles. They do not typically twist up for 3 weeks but would regularly do so for 1 week then bun up or wear off the shoulder styles.
3. Natural hair thrives in a heat free regimen. This is especially true for people with thin strands. People with thicker strands can get away with murder. Type 4 hair is usually assumed to be thick and this is simply not true. Some have thick strands some have thin.
4. Most long haired naturals rarely if ever use extensions.
5. Trimming is more important than people make out. The less damage you have to your hair, the less you need to trim. It is not about trimming a quarter inch every 2-3 months but rather about examining the ends of your hair and assessing how much needs to be trimmed and how often (i,e look for split ends!). Splitting and thinning hair ends will not gain length. period.
Meanwhile the most common questions that people ask when it comes to growing hair are
1. Which hair product to use
2. Which washing method is best
3. How to avoid ‘chemicals’ in hair products
4. How to style hair
5. How little should we trim (emphasis on little)
6. How should I moisturise my hair
7. How can I make my hair soft
8. What can I apply to my hair/scalp to make my hair grow faster
9. What should I eat to make my hair grow faster
In my opinion, people have used different products and methods in their hair care and still gained length. The fundamental similarities are what we should see instead of investing time on the differences.
The simple truth is that people do not want to wear 4 week old twists which have been washed weekly and are a little puffy and undefined. We listen to and do things that are not suitable for our particular texture (i.e we do not listen to our hair choosing instead to do what works for a different person).
Ladies, what are your thoughts??
I’m a thick 4c, and I say protective styles are definitely a win. I’m not sure if my hair really locs when it’s in braids or twists, because I’ve had kinky twists in my hair for 4 1/2 months (I could of gone longer but I was afraid of dreading) and I had about an inch and a half of new growth, afterwards doing protective styling (twists, bantu knot outs, and just fros) I don’t comb through my hair unless I’m conditioning it. Last summer I had severely color damaged my hair and a lot of it fell out, and I still have a teeny bit of damaged ends that I’m clipping off gradually, but after I took my kinky twists out, a lot of the damaged hair came out too. I cosign to this post :)
PERIOD. POINT BLANK. HERE’S THE COMBiNATION.
Successful Long Hair =
low manipulation
no heat
no weave
two strand twists or braids (no styles that pull edges)
moisturizer (natural oils allow you to go longer without washing, other products will have you washing more often)
trim only when needed (which will be less often if you follow the rules above)
if you do not follow any of the rules above you will have to sacrifice something whether that be trimming more often, washing more often causes manipulation, not being able to wear your hair out more often, or tearing and breaking of the hair.
THAT’S MY TAKE ON IT……HOPE THIS HELPS.
+1
I agree totally!Retaining length really challenges every fibre in you, as you have to be disciplined even if its to make sure you cover your hair at night…….. LOL
This definitely seems to be sound advice but wouldn’t braids be considered high manipulation and also what is your take on truely low manipulation? Especially for detangling or keeping hair detangled, that’s when I find most manipulation happens no matter whether it is with a comb or fingers.
I definitely agree with the protective styling points, especially for fine hair.
My strands are fine but my hair is super dense and type 4. I used to think my hair strands were thick but really it was a lot of fine strands closely packed together. So it looked like “thick” hair. In my ignorance I would detangle frequently, wear it out all the time, use a blowdryer to stretch, etc — and my length was somewhat stagnant.
Eventually I realized that my strands were actually delicate and fine, so I started doing long stretches of protective styling either in twists or braids (sometimes w/ and sometime w/o extensions). My hair is now about 1.5 inches short of BSL.
Also, when I do wear braid or twist extensions, I typically wear them in the super humid summer months when my hair isn’t in need of constant daily moisture like in winter time. I ALWAYS do them myself (I learned how when I was a teen). I secure the extensions loosely and don’t use too much weave per section of hair. I also trim the extensions every week to gradually lighten the load on my own hair and also to just change the look up. I still moisturize and condition weekly, but try not to go crazy on my scalp so that my braids don’t get fuzzy at the roots. It lasts for about 1-1.5 months. I actually retain quite a bit of length with extensions, as much or moreso than I do with natural twists or braids.
But please please please be careful with extensions. Make sure you hair is in good health before you add them, and also the extensions shouldn’t be painfully tight or super tiny, that is a big no no if length retention and hair health is your goal. Don’t weigh down your hair too much by adding too much weave and also go easy on your edges (don’t try to get all the little fuzzys around the edge, don’t make the braids too small, and don’t pull your hair tight). I prefer a braid spray for a moisturizer instead of a rub-in one (I make a spray out of water, glycerin, castor oil, peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and infusium 23). Extensions can be pretty safe, just be smart about them and you can still retain significant length. I also find them more fun than twisting/braiding w/o extensions, since w/extensions I add colors and change the texture, cut, length, etc.
Great post! I learned a lot! I couldn’t figure out how to fight the little one strand knots and how to prvent my hair from tangling on itself. I’m now positive it was because I kept wearing my hair out, unstretched and doing a piss poor job of protecting my ends. I’ve been natural for 3+ years and when I first started, I was on a strict regimen and saw the best results. So for me personally, I’ll be back on a regimen that incorporates keeping my hair braided M-F, washing every week, ACV’ing more consistently, deep conditioning every two weeks, henna’ing once a month and lightly moisturizing my hair daily. It’s a lot but I want to reach my hair goals, it’ll be worth it.
Great info. I have been taking really good care of my hair but have not seen much growth so I decided starting this past weekend to keep my hair for longer periods in protective styles. I have decided on two weeks for right now to see whether this makes a difference.
As I long-term transitioner, I believe the following items listed have helped me to retain length:
Protective Styles: I wear these mostly due to the fact that I’m a KISS (keep it simple stupid) kinda girl…I wear them 4/7 days a week
Low Manipulation: I only wash my hair once a week and style my hair twice a week; once on wash day and once at the end of the week when I want to let my hair down. When I do manipulate my hair, I try to be as gentle as possible. I always ensure it’s a little damp before I start and find myself doing the bare minimum amount of finger detangling when I do restyle my hair.
Heat: Haven’t used direct (flat iron, curler, hot comb, crimping iron, etc) heat for over 2 years now.
Moisture, Moisture, Moisture! Nuff Said!
Lastly, I invested in silk scarves, a bonnet, and a silk pillowcase. I created a DIY on how to make your own silk pillowcase :) At your leisure, please check it out:
http://www.lillian-mae.com/diynatural/diy-silk-pillowcase/
I L-O-V-E the silk pillowcase idea! I’ve been too lazy to buy one and just use a bonnet or scarf. I’m going to bust out my home-ec skills and sew up a silk pillowcase! Gracias!
YAY FOR DIY!
Seriously, Amazon charges $47 for one…I made mine using thrifted silk scarves for $8!
Remember the article the other day on how much we spend yearly on natural hair products? The silk scarf is half the budget!
I believe that first and foremost being healthy is the way to achieving healthy hair, drinking plenty of fluids, eating right and exercising. All this also helps with stress management which can damage hair. Being healthy and keeping my strands moisturized is the key to my hair growing and being healthy, any other advice I take with a grain of salt. I have 4b hair that is naturally thin; I have been natural for 3yrs and have shoulder length hair. Braids and twist do not work for me on a regular basis. I wash my hair every other day with Trader Joe’s Nourish Spa Shampoo and Conditioner, I only comb my hair with conditioner while in the shower, I use Paul Mitchell’s leave in conditioner daily and Qhemets Burdock Root Cream daily. At night before I go to bed I do not always twist my hair but I do apply shea moisture cream and put my silk bonnet on and lay my head on my silk pillow. My hair is healthy, moisturized, shoulder length and just over all growing. I have even dyed my light brown hair blond and 6 months later no damage to report. I will say this, I deep condition weekly with things from my kitchen: Olive Oil, Plain Greek Yogurt, Bananas, and Honey. Also I do not apply heat to my hair but once a year, and even then it is limited.
I’ve recently started twisting my hair and am going to experiment with protective styles for the rest of the year to see if there is a huge difference. I’m also going to try KinkyKurlyQueen microtwists in December, but without blowdrying my hair. Although my growth is pretty steady, I want to see if I can get more than 3 inches before the year’s end. Last year I braid my hair -which took a “blissful” 9+ hours- left them in for almost 2 months, and thought my hair had grown tenfold; in actuality I just hadn’t seen my hair down in a while so I perceived more growth than there actually was.
I truly think hair growth is relative to the person. For me, it’s been more about regimen, trimming split ends on the spot, also doing a formal trim to help oxygen get into my hair (every 4 to 6 months), and exercise–which helps the blood circulate throughout my hair, and most importantly moisturizing when needed and always deep conditioning after a wash. I do agree with not using heat and I’ve never been one for extensions/weaves because they are way too heavy. I also don’t bother taking my hair out of a bonnet or scarf if I’m just hanging around. This article really made me think–awesome!
I like keeping my 4b/c hair in twists/twistouts and sometimes mini-twists. I find that my hair is better moisturized while in these styles vs. being in the afroish styles. I was watching “Africanexport” do an crotchet braid hairstyle on her daughter this week on her youtube channel for protective styling. I will definitely be trying this out on my hair, because just leaving it alone differently works, and keeping it moisturized every 2 or 3 days for me. I’m looking to add another 4 inches to my hair before the year is out, I’m currently between 12 to 12 1/2inches on my head.
My take on this article is that low manipulation is what helps to retain length.After i wash my hair or style it for the day i leave it ALONE and that helps me retain length.
My routine:
*Co-wash weekly
*Deep condition/Pre-poo rouhgly x2 a month.
*Clarify 1x a month
*I use a satin cap/scarf and ALWAYS braid my hair before bed
*I unravel my braids with EVOO or Coconut oil and style as desired
*Protective style is single braids or twist 2-3x a year when i feel to do it and i dust my ends when needed.
“That’s all folks!” LOL
Well…i have both 3 and 4 type curls(i guess…according to CG i am Corkicelli) but i do not “LIVE” in protective styles per se. My hair thrives on a daily wash n go. I do twists sometimes…but they do a number on my ends so i don’t do them often.
Protective styling isn’t for everyone.
I have thin 4b hair, and my hair more or less sits below the nape of my neck. Although I don’t care for two-strand twists on me, I tried them again recently as a protective style. However the process of taking them down and detangling was murder. I think my hair is happy enough with two braids at night and being pinned up or back during the day.
I agree, twists are not for everyone, and I personally feel very limited in terms of styles when my hair is twisted.’
So as-low-manipulation-as-possible it is for me, lol.
Great article though, and I really enjoyed reading everyone’s opinions and experiences :)
I have thin 4b hair, and my hair more or less sits below the nape of my neck. Although I don’t care for two-strand twists on me, I tried them again recently as a protective style. However the process of taking them down and detangling was murder. I think my hair is happy enough with two braids at night and being pinned up or back during the day.
I agree, twists are not for everyone, and I personally feel very limited in terms of styles when my hair is twisted.’
So as-low-manipulation-as-possible it is for me, lol.
Great article though, and I really enjoyed reading everyone’s opinions and experiences :)
I didn’t like twists until i came across a video from Naptural85 on youtube and she has many tips on how to do them/take them out etc…
Want to add low manipulation I took to different level.
I consider true low manipulation is the less time you need to spend in your hair, point blank. So the only time I fully detangle is after cleaning my hair. I try to make a style last minimum a week, unless I do an out style. I don’t ever braid unless it will be an out style and only then I only do it at the on my bangs. The only time a do finger detangling is to keep the hair detangle while washing and conditioning and that is just get the product though hair and very minimum amount. And the other time I finger detangle is if I have for some reason have to redo or update a style when it is not wash day, but that is just to get the hair do what I need it not a true detangling. It is part my keep it minimal work on my hair to make it less time consuming, and less stressful part of my life.
I find now that my minor laziness and the true low manipulation has contribute hair progress. Now in foresight obvious now where I went wrong in the first 2 years of officially being natural: It when I was saying “hair care was too time consuming” was my hint. Doing the protective styles that took too much time and involved more manipulation was my down fall. Making my hair practices and style as simple and lazy as possible is what solved it. It truly a case of keep it simple stupid. Now my super kinky hair is happier.
My hair absolutely hates twists… it knots so much (probably needed a trim!) Anyway for the past 3 months I been using protective styles. The one I am enjoying the most is Bunning!
I am loving this style!!! So this week going to blow it out and do a little trim and see if it’s made any difference to my length. I only wanted 12 inches – this is my 2nd year (May gone) and its taking forever!!!
Before these last 3 months I was in love with my hair just being out in afro puffs or hair pinned up and back out – I just wanted it out – and in some ways still do – but it has to be long!!
I kept noticing loads of little hair curls on the floor and realised that’s where my hair length had gone! The first year was great and growth was good. But this second year has been really slow, and it made me sit up and revaluate – fast! just what I was doing and where I was going wrong!
I feel I’m on the right path now though – my hair is loving this style and its all calm on the western front!! So I’m hoping something comes out of this! Preferable long hair please!
I’m confused can someone explain? Is 1 and 4 not the same?
1 = twists or braids done WITHOUT extensions (real hair)
4= hairstyles done WITH extensions (added fake hair)
I would have to admit that wearing Braids worked for growing my hair. And to be honest Braids is the only thing tha keeps my hair growing. I got micro braids and kept them in for 3 mons and then I would go maybe a week or 2 then without them. Them got more micros for 3 more mons. Did the same routine for for another 3 mons for a total of going 9 mons with micros altogether. It worked for me and my hair was very healthy and healthy looking. The trick is when u have your hair braided not to mess with it to much. I was happy with my progress. But I messed up and we to the beauty shop and got aand let my stylist talk me into getting a perm. And she used a super and it broke out all my hair. I shoulda known better. So now I’m back to my micros trying to get my healthy hair back. WISH ME LUCK!!!!
I would like to know, what is wrong with wearing sew-ins during transitional period?
Also, what dos EVOO, ACV and APL stands for?
Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Apple Cider Vinegar and Arm Pit Lenght. For your first question, I asked the same scroll back up to June 12th responses.
I have 3C hair and I would LOVE to wear my hair in twists or braids bc my hair is under some kind of distress. My hair has been falling out/breaking more than usual. Sadly twists don’t stay/get fuzzed up (no matter how much head tying I do) and braids come out scalpy. I guess wearing it off the shoulders in buns etc could work but I just don’t want to touch it period.