[Opinion] Why Naturals Should Buy Exclusively from Black-Owned Hair Companies


By Lurie Daniel-Favors

When Chris Rock’s film Good Hair was released there was a lot of noise made about the fact that most of the people profiting from the massive Black hair industry are not actually Black. It seems everyone is benefitting financially from our collective addiction to hair that we don’t actually grow.

A few weeks ago Mintel, the market research firm reported that over the past five years there was a 26% decline in the sale of hair relaxers.  Natural hair sites all over the place did the hallelujah dance and many in the natural hair community greeted the news with excitement.  The idea that more Black women are beginning to embrace ethnically Black hair (i.e. natural hair) is one that makes many of us happy.

The numbers were truly astounding.

  • Relaxer sales are estimated to drop from $206 million in 2008 to only $152 million this year
  • In the past 12 months, nearly 70% of Black women “say they currently wear or have worn their hair natural”

  • Now, granted I haven’t seen 70% of Black women in my area with naturals (and I suspect part of that decrease is due to the prevalence of hair weaves…), but the numbers are encouraging nonetheless.

    But when I read the report, in addition to getting hyped over the increase in naturals, I was instantly reminded of Civil Rights era bus boycotts. Specifically the Montgomery, Alabama bus boycott.

    Why? Because just like the Montgomery boycott, for the savvy Black owned hair company, the numbers in that report can mean the difference between financial independence—or not.

    And our decisions as Black consumers may make all the difference.

    History in Context
    For those who don’t remember the details of the bus boycotts, here’s the quick version.

    After slavery, Black passengers were treated like scum third class citizens under legal segregation.  This was especially true when it came to public transportation.  After countless incidents where Black passengers were forced to either give up their seats for White passengers, kicked off of buses all together or subjected to racial violence terrorism, the Black community began to boycott the transportation system and demanded equal treatment.

    The Montgomery Boycott is one of the more famous protests. It lasted over a year and was a tremendous display of Black people really owning their monetary power. Despite the fact that Whites in Montgomery were completely unwilling to provide non-racist equal service to Black bus patrons, they very much wanted the money that Black patrons spent on bus tickets.

    During the boycott, Black taxi drivers stepped up to provide increased services. Black churches across the nation raised money and collected shoes to support the folks who chose to walk to work rather than submit to racist Jim Crow policies. The Black community rallied to keep Black folks mobile—and financially independent—during the boycott.

    However…in the pivotal moments after the boycott’s successful end, the Black community returned to riding buses operated by racist bus company owners.

    But what if instead of giving racist bus owners their transportation dollars going back to business as usual, Black patrons decided to keep their money circulating in their own community? What if during the boycott, the Black community created and maintained its own bus companies, met its own transportation needs and circulated those dollars within its own borders?

    What if instead of celebrating the fact that racists bus owners could no longer openly discriminate, the Black community rejoiced—and then decided it neither needed nor wanted to spend its money with those companies? What if instead, those boycotters chose to take their hard earned money and give it to Black owned bus companies that respected them and their humanity?

    Natural Hair Dollars and The Power of Choice
    Now, what this have to do with the decrease in relaxers and increase in Black women who are choosing natural hair alternatives?

    It all comes down to choices.

    Because believe it or not, the natural hair community is also at a pivotal moment.  We are literally shifting the commerce of the Black hair economy to one that rejects the idea that one must have straight hair in order to be deemed socially acceptable. And since Black women spend a hell of a lot of money on hair care, that shift is under some intense industry scrutiny.

    You see, natural hair websites were not the only ones reviewing that report.

    You can bet your lace front wig that large commercial hair product companies are keenly aware that they are losing money in the hair relaxer market. Anyone who has watched 5 minutes of BET lately knows that companies like Pantene and L’Oreal are hitting the airwaves hard to promote their new products for “naturals.” They’ve even adopted similar language, using terms like “co-wash,” “curl defining,” and “clarifying” to describe their products.

    It’s not because all of a sudden they changed their mind and decided that nappy/kinky/coily hair is beautiful. It’s because they are losing money to natural hair companies owned and operated by Black women. Companies like Going Natural, Karen’s Body Beautiful, Doris New York and Shea Moisture. And they aren’t going down without a fight.

    So now the natural community must choose how to spend our money and whom we will support with our economic power.

    Will we reward companies that played on our insecurities for decades? Will we support companies who profited by reinforcing a standard of beauty that was designed to exclude Black women and our hair?

    Or will we instead choose to support companies started by Black women for Black women? Will we reward those companies founded by sistas working in their kitchens who took the time to blend safe, natural ingredients in ways designed to promote the beauty and health of Black hair?

    Or will we…not?

    Just like those involved in the bus boycotts we have demonstrated our monetary potential.  We’ve shown that “going natural” isn’t just a trend and it is here to stay. Now we have to decide if we will throw our economic might behind those businesses in our own community who believe in the beauty inherent in who we are—or if we will continue in a (bad) tradition of supporting those outside our community who have shown little loyalty to our needs.

    Lurie is an attorney and the author of “Afro State of Mind: Memories of a Nappy Headed Black Girl. You can find her on Twitter,Facebook and YouTube.

    Black Girl With Long Hair

    Black Girl With Long Hair

    Leila, founder of Black Girl with Long Hair (April 2008). Social media, pop culture and black beauty enthusiast. bell hooks' hair twin...


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    117 thoughts on “[Opinion] Why Naturals Should Buy Exclusively from Black-Owned Hair Companies

    1. My husband and I have this conversation often. Matter of fact, he gave a speech a few weeks ago on the topic of integration being the death of the Black business class & touched upon the subject of immigrants coming to this country, pooling their funds & working together to start businesses & reinvesting in their own communities. He opened this business almost 20 yrs ago & 99% of our customer base is Black & we have always been conscientious about dealing with other BOB whenever possible. We do differ on our approach, though. I believe in convenience & value for dollar, he wants to give as much business as possible to Black ppl. I like a good deal & I like to save whenever possible. We have every right to be discerning stewards of how much we spend & how we spend it. Specifically to the issue of hair products, everybody & their mama is jumping on the bandwagon to sell natural, organic hair & beauty products. Of course, we can’t buy from every company we hear about on Youtube or this website. Some of these folks charge ridiculous prices for their products. What I put on my hair gets washed down the drain. I’m not paying $16 for so-called organic, all natural shampoo or $20 for 8ozs of conditioner. That’s not a good use of the $ my husband works so hard to earn. I categorize my spending into necessity and want. Hair products are not a necessity, though I do enjoy ordering & trying new things within reason & when there’s a sale or coupon code. For various & complex reasons there is a schism within Black America & we can’t solve it on this website. Some Black folks will not spend a dime with other Black folks. Ppl tell my husband to his face that they don’t want to do business with him bc he’s Black & he tells them that they have a slave mentality & he moves on to the next customer. We should support our own and do my part in all avenues but I don’t care who’s selling or offering a service, if it’s not a necessity & if the cost is too high & I’m not dying to have it, I will be keeping my $ in my pocket.

      • That is a MAJOR reason not just black-owned business don’t do well, but all Black people in general. No one is free unless we are all free and does with such a@@inine reasons not to buy from black businesses just because it is a Black business, especially a black person should just be left behind. We can not afford to keep dragging them along anymore.

    2. I completely agree and actually but up a list of black owned and non black owned companies and products on my blog in march. And no I am not advertising my blog, I haven’t even posted since may so just check out the list, I have about a 100 brand names there so you know what to buy. I did my research by checking multiple sources, emailing companies, and messaging them on fb. kk, hope you enjoy.


    3. I do want to support black owned companies, but al lot of their products are a lot more expensive then the products from the non-black owned companies.
      I use organic root stimulator and just found out that is was black owned, but not any more.
      I really like the product and it is affortable, so i dont want to stop using it because it isnt black owned any more.

      And i have been reading that a lot of the black owned businesses “sell out” and getting taking over by big non black owned companies.
      Is that true?

      So what would be a good way for me to support the black owned companies without going over my budget?
      And shouldn´t the black owned companies keep their ground more for us costumers to be able to support them?

    4. Black owned businesses need to update the logo’s on their products, eg, the proud lady, and keep up with the latest hair movement, like the natural hair movement as a lot of non-black owned businesses are already moving in and capitalizing off of this, with mis-leading terms or names/website names like http://www.nubian(fill in the blank). Those who made sacrifices for my freedom and rights are important and in my case I don’t mind spending that extra buck to support a black business. After all with the black unemployment rate always in the double digits, what white or other ethnic business is supporting or making sacrifices for me?

    5. Pingback: Karen's Body Beautiful: 10 Years Beautiful | Afro State of Mind

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