By Jc of The Natural Haven Bloom

On the surface of it, it is a very simple formula – the less your hair breaks the more length it will retain. However, this formula is deceptively simple because many times breakage goes completely unnoticed. There are things that we regard as normal for natural hair and to some extent they are default properties of hair.  For example, the curlier and the kinkier the hair, the more difficult it is to run a comb through it. However in order to keep gaining length, the breakage associated with grooming natural hair needs to be tackled and minimised. This is the story of hidden breakage, how to recognize it and how to fix it.

1. Comb persistently stopping or getting stuck in hair

Short Term Damage: Breakage usually long strands (i.e more than half of total length)
Long Term Damage: Creation of mid shaft splits which eventually break
Why is it ignored: The long strands that break can easily be mistaken for shed hair
Most at risk hair:  All curly hair regardless of width of curl, hair with kinks, naturals with thick  individual strands(often because  it is assumed that the hair is strong and can take vigorous combing)

Every single time you run a comb through your hair and it stops, you need to also stop. The comb stops because it is at a tangle.  Pressing down on the comb is not the solution and in fact can be a reason for your hair to start breaking. The physical force could easily snap hair. Continually rubbing hair at the same spot can cause mid shaft splits in kinky hair.

Possible resolutions to combat this problem rely on you experimenting with your hair and finding what method of combing suits your hair. The method you choose should ideally allow you to detect tangles very early on. This could be conditioner combing, finger detangling or switching from wet detangling to dry detangling or vice versa. Hair brushes often aggravate mid shaft splits so avoid them ideally or minimise how often you use them.

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Here on BGLH we sing the praises of natural hair constantly. We talk about how beautiful it is and how, with the right information and techniques, it’s easy to manage. But even we have to admit that there are just some things that are undeniably frustrating about natural hair. Here is our honest list:

1. Protective Styling

Protective styling (or low manipulation styling) is one of the cardinal rules of natural hair, and although many naturals come to appreciate it, it is certainly an acquired taste. I mean, who doesn’t want to show off their curls, coils and kinks?? Plus, we live in a non-protective styling culture. From movie stars to street fashionistas, wearing your hair out and long is the name of the game. While protective styles like turbans and headwraps have gained some traction, the average American woman doesn’t have her hair tucked away. Still, in the name of hair health, many naturals hide their ends for days or even weeks at a time. The end result is beautiful, luscious hair, but Lord knows it can be frustrating.

2. Growing Out the Big Chop

I’ve never seen a big chop I didn’t like. The low cut style works wonders for highlighting a woman’s eyes and bone structure. Not so much the awkward 4 and 5 inches that follow. It’s a weird length where your hair is not short enough to be a fade, but not long enough to be the curly mop so many of us crave. The best way to get through the awkward phase? Figure out at least 2 styles that look good at that length (twist outs and flat twisted updos are good options) and stick with them. Also, buy copious amounts of headbands, flower clips and hair accessories.

3. The Product Chase

While there are some natural products that are almost universally effective (coconut oil and shea butter in particular), beyond that there are seemingly infinite variations; water-based moisturizers/spritzes, leave in conditioners, hair butters, deep conditioners, styling products. They’re everywhere! While products aren’t the primary determinant of hair health, and they certainly won’t make or break your regimen, it’s nonetheless important to find a set of products that work well together, and leave your cuticle feeling smooth and soft. And the time it takes to test out various combinations of products can be undeniably frustrating.
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By Geniece of Beautifully Made

Congratulations! After months (or years) of transitioning you have completed your journey to wearing your hair naturally. Now what? Although you learned a great deal about products that work for your curly hair during your transition, you realize that being completely natural introduces a whole host of interesting questions that you didn’t consider as a transitioner. The biggest question is: How do I build a regimen for my curly hair? Through trial and error I have learned a few simple and helpful ways to go about building a regimen that will leave you neither broke nor frustrated.

I am a firm believer that products are NOT the most important part of a hair regimen. For this reason I hesitate to provide a list of specific brands in this post. However, I know that for many new naturals finding the right set of products is a goal set shortly after going natural. For this reason I will spend the majority of this post on product categories rather than specific products.

Step #1 Find a water based moisturizer

Many products use the word “moisturizer” in the title of the product but upon closer inspection they don’t seem to provide much moisture. A good place to start is the ingredient list. If the first or second product isn’t water then you might want to move on. I will say that products that list water and aloe vera within the first line of the ingredient list tend to be pretty moisturizing. When it comes to a moisturizer I tend to prefer natural or mostly natural product lines. This is the only staple product that I tend to seek out natural lines because, in my experience, my hair is usually moisturized better than drug store product lines.

Step #2: Find a conditioner and shampoo

In general, shampoos that do not contain sulfates or harsh detergents will be more moisturizing. There are quite a few drug store brands and natural lines that fit this criteria that are also wallet friendly. I always say it’s best to experiment with less expensive products because you may find that a product like Trader Joe’s Nourish Spa, which is less than four bucks works well. When it comes to conditioners, you want to get a product that has slip. Slip basically refers to the quality of a conditioner (or a detangling leave in) that makes the hair slippery and thus easier to detangle. I like to get products that specify “dry and damaged” hair on the packaging. While my hair isn’t damaged my line of thinking is that if it works for damaged hair then it’ll work for me. I apply this logic when selecting deep conditioners which you should consider investing in and using twice a month.
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By Fran of HeyFranHey.com

I’ve explained in other posts that although I’m a product junkie, when it comes to applying product I prefer taking a more minimalist approach. I’ve come to understand that my scalp is at it’s healthiest when there’s less product on my hair and my strands seem to thrive with more simplified techniques. I even completely removed shampoo from my beauty regimen over a year ago because it seemed an unnecessary step (and purchase). Those detergents were way too drying for my hair. Even the healthy, all natural ones still left my hair feeling squeaky clean. Problem was, I wasn’t a fan of that squeak because it meant my hair had been stripped of much needed natural oils. That completely defeated the purpose of a healthy hair regimen, didn’t it? Losing moisture? Now I simply cleanse with all natural conditioners that are nutrient-rich, aiding in scalp and hair health as well as moisture. The best part of healthy ingredients is that pretty much all of them contain nutrients that are natural cleansing agents, so they definitely get the job done! If you’ve tried co-washing and didn’t feel “clean”, I would suggest giving it another shot with a healthier product.

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By Audrey Sivasothy, author of The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care

Crown area hair breakage can be very distressing, especially when the rest of your hair is flourishing. It can also be frustrating when your hair’s hemline is shaped like a W rather than a healthy U or V because of crown area and middle area breakage issues. Don’t be discouraged! If your crown area breakage is not the result of a medical issue, there is hope for restoring your crown area to its normal fullness and length. The key is to isolate the crown area and pamper it to life. This article will give you 7 quick tips for encouraging hair growth in your crown area again.

1. Investigate. Is your crown area breakage caused by physical trauma?

It is helpful to determine the exact cause of your breakage, especially if it is caused by handling and physical trauma. Often times, mechanical damage is something you are fully aware of— how have you handled your crown air hair in the past? Is your sew-in done too tightly? Have you been rough combing your crown area? Wrapping? Have you been neglecting to fully moisturize the area? Applying too much heat? Did you overlap a relaxer? Have you been rollersetting too tightly? Has repetitive coloring affected your crown? Once you determine a physical cause for your crown area breakage, simply discontinuing the practice will turn your crown around in several weeks.

2. Diagnose. Is it a protein/moisture balancing issue?

Next, you will need to determine if the breakage can be fixed with either protein or moisture deep conditioning. You’ll need to read my article: The Fine Art of Protein and Moisture Balancing for help with determining your required product solution for your crown area breakage. More than likely, restoring the moisture balance will be your focus. Once you know whether your product focus should be protein or moisture, you’ll need to deep condition weekly with heat to restore your crown area. When you condition your hair, make sure that you section the hair in increments so that each and every section of hair, especially the crown, is treated. You’d be surprised the number of people who simply coat the edges, barely scrunch through the middle, and slather the ends with conditioner product. You have to get in there good and make sure the crown area gets some love!

You also want to be sure to moisturize (either protein or moisture-based) the crown area daily. Part through and really isolate the crown. Really focus your daily moisturizing efforts in the middle. Very few people treat the middle sections of hair to moisturizer on a regular basis.

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