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Fran’s 3B/3C Styling Regimen

• Apr 2, 2012

By Fran of

I’ve figured out that hair growth, for me at least, means keeping my hair in a protective style more often than not. If you were to track my hair regimen for an entire month, you’d find me in twists or braids 3 weeks out of the 4. I sort of look at the wash & go style as a “cheat” week, where I know it’s doing absolutely nothing to keep my hair healthy but I get to show off my hard work!

When my hair is in twists (or braids), I’m a lot better at keeping my hair detangled and moisturized.

I simply unravel each piece every few days and finger comb to ensure my hair is knot free. I add more product as needed. However, with a wash & go, my hair is completely exposed to the elements. That free-ness is fun but way harder to keep moisturized since I’m usually more concerned with the “look” of the style than my actual moisture levels. To be honest, my wash & gos look so much better when they’re super messy and even a bit dry. That day before wash day, when it’s time to let the style finally go, is always the best hair day! Anyone else feel that way? Now you understand why I don’t do this often!

On wash day, I usually start off by finger-detangling my hair with extra virgin coconut oil. I do this in small sections and twist each piece as I go along, to keep it in place. This helps me minimize breakage in the shower, since water makes your hair extra fragile. Once my hair is completely worked through, I saturate my hair with deep conditioner, usually the Purification Masque by Shea Moisture, and sit under my Huetiful Steamer for 20 min. Deep conditioning before washing my hair helps minimize breakage even further. There’s something about going into the wash process with strands that are already tangle free and buttery soft. It makes it less daunting and stressful!

In the shower, I massage and cleanse my scalp with the Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner by Shea Moisture. Considering my hair has already been worked through, this process takes me less than 10 min. Once I’m out, I immediately add some Curly Butter by Bee Mine, if I’m protective styling. I love finger-combing product into my hair while it’s soaking wet. I feel it absorbs into my strands better and gives me more definition and shine once dried. The Curly Butter is perfect for me because it’s all natural, so it’s healthy, but it also has a little bit of hold so my twists stay nice and neat. I then seal with some pure Aloe Vera by Aubrey Organics. I’ve tried sealing with different types of oils but they all consistently weigh me down. The watery and light consistency of Aloe allows my hair some body and fullness. I then proceed with my two strand twists, doing around 8 on each side.

I finish my process by spritzing my ends with some water and then sealing with Jamaican Black Castor Oil, for more protection and moisture. I’ll leave these in for about a week before washing and re-doing the entire process. I finger-detangle, with the coconut oil, at least one time during the week (then re-do the style) to make sure my hair stays knot free. At night I cover my hair with a Loc-Soc or Sue Maesta hooded headband to keep my twists in place.

During my one “cheat” week, my wash & go style, I simply rake in some Kinky Curly Knot Today into freshly washed, dripping wet hair. I then seal with the Aloe as well. Once those three layers are created (water, leave-in, sealant) I lightly press my hair with a Curl Cloth to help speed the process of air-drying. 4 hours later, my hair is usually fully dried and ready to go!

To preserve my curls at night, I wear my hair in a loose and high ponytail at the top of my head (the pineapple) and sleep on a satin pillowcase. The satin helps my curls retain their moisture and shine. The next morning, I simply add some Knot Today to my wet palms and run it over the top layer of my hair to refresh the curls and help minimize frizz. I repeat this process every morning, for a week, until it’s time for wash day again.

If you’d prefer some visuals, feel free to watch these steps, from beginning to end, on my YouTube!

Fran is the author of Follow her on Twitter @heyfranhey.

About Fran

I'm a natural hair, nutrition and fitness blogger from New York City. Battling a kidney related illness that doctors couldn't seem to fix, I became obsessed with alternative medicine. After months of researching and finally curing myself, it became quite evident that healthy resources in our urban communities were lacking. I began my health & wellness tumblr in Dec of 2010 as somewhat of a journal, hoping to shed some light on my journey to health as well as our disconnection with healthy living. It's been my goal to create a safe haven where our wellness concerns could be shared and hopefully cured, as naturally as possible.

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41 Comments on "Fran’s 3B/3C Styling Regimen"

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I will be trying this methods on my own hair…especially the 3/4 weeks of protective styling! Thanks Fran…Hey!!


Absolutely LOVE it! I also have type 3b/3c hair. This is very similar to my regimen. On my way to youtube to subscribe! You are simply BEAUTIFUL!


This was really good for me! Thanks! My hair is not that long curly so what type of protective styles do you suggest for not quite to shoulder length hair? When straightened it is down my back but the draw up factor is serious!


That’s pretty much my system!! Lol. I only let my hair our in public with a ‘wash and go’ once a month bascally.


I have started this process 3 weeks ago and even in that short period of time I have noticed a difference in my hair.


Hey Fran! I know this is off topic, but will you be doing a skin regimen soon? Thanks!


This is the same routine I followed during my first year. I really need to get back to that. Your hair is absolutely beautiful!


Thank you for this, I like to see some different textures.


[…] the article here: Fran’s 3b/3c Styling Regimen | Black Girl with Long Hair This entry is filed under […]


Hey Fran =) You and your hair are gorgeous! Im not a 3bc girl, but I can appreciate a beautiful head of hair!


I love your hair. I have 3b/3c hair and trying to grow it out. Looks gorgeous!


Hey Fran,

Your hair is lovely. How long have you been natural and for how long have you been following this regimen.


AT last I can see the face behind some of the most interesting pieces here. Your hair is off the hook!


Thank You!!!!! I have been trying to find somebody with my hair type and nothing. Then I lucked upon you. YAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!! So, Im going to try your regimen.… Yipppy!!


Your hair is gorgeous, if I saw you in public I would be like wow just wow :). Also I saw this hairstyle even though it’s on a causican lady, but she does great hair tutorial “lilithedarkmoon” youtuber it might look good on you as well. Titled: Elegant updo for medium long hair tutorial Easy everyday hairstyle for straight and curly hair


Such beautiful hair, thx for sharing your regimen!

Thanks so much for all that you share. I follow and love your Tumblr blog. I have type 4 hair but I appreciate your all natural, no heat, no chemicals approach to great hair. I have been revising my regimen since my BC and have taken your regimen (along with Naptural85 of YouTube) as my “inspiration.” I do believe I will be using straight aloe vera juice soon on my hair. I used to use the Kimmaytube Leave-In, which worked great, but realized that the aloe was what was really making my hair POP! I most likely will be using… Read more »
While you are in a protective style, HairInfinity works from the inside out. It’s an all natural vitamin that has MSM in it which extends the growing stage of your hair. The other ingredients are Biotin, Horsetail, Folic, your B’s to name a few. You will see results within a month. You’ll definitely will see the growth in the protective stage. You won’t be disappointed. It is suggested to take it at night while the body is at rest, healing and repairing itself. Also, it’s not in a stress state. It can be taken anytime of the day with the… Read more »

I am currently growing out of a perm and can now see the natural pattern of my hair which is curly. I am about a 1/4 inch away from BSL. I think I’m going to try twisties and see how well that goes. I’m looking forward to more growth.


Hi Fran I LOVE your hair and I recently big chopped last month so now I have a super cute 3b/3c twa that is starting to grow rapidly! 🙂 My question is what kind of protective styles/ regimes can I try on my not so long hair?


I wish I could do more protective styling on my 3C! I’m just so bad at styling! #1 I’ve NEVER been good at styling my hair… like ever. Even when it was relaxed. #2 I can never find the time to just sit down and play in my hair.
Hopefully this summer I’ll be able to find the time to try some new styles. I co-wash and go every 3 days. I have knots, fairy knots, and I think that my natural hair has reached my shoulders and I have stopped retaining length. 🙁


Beautiful Hair!!!


Wow. That bit about hair looking great just before wash day is sooo true! Lol! I also love Lilith Moon’s PS moves. She makes it look easy!


I first would like to say your hair is really beautiful. I have color on the ends of my hair and im getting frustrated because it wont curly up on the ends. I wanted to know how to get rid of the color without cuttin or damaging my hair?


I am looking for a way to wear my hair down how you do during your cheat week on a daily basis or more than when I can afford to go to the salon and have a professional do the whole Deva Curl system on me (which I have tried to mimic on several ocassions and FAILED) is that a possibility if or if not what methods would you recommend in addition or deletion to what you already have stated. If possible please respond via email


[…] if this is what Cipriana and Franny are doing on wash day, maybe I should get back to pre-pooing too. My hair loves extra virgin […]

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